Carlisle Awayday - Just the Ticket!

It may just be a coincidence, but it would seem that many a Cask Ale drinker of a certain age spent their youthful leisure hours at the end of a railway platform, the pursuit of Train-spotting I guess being similar to Beer Ticking, insomuch that you're always wanting to complete the set. Back in the 1970's, although Newcastle' and its environs offered a diverse choice for the railway enthusiast, you knew that there was a completely different world some sixty miles away at the foot of Hadrian's Wall; Carlisle was always a rewarding 'Awayday' destination. Fast forward to 2011, and the prospect of Solway CAMRA's Carlisle Beer Festival was met with similar anticipation.

The 'Centurion' in Newcastle's Central Station not only boasts an ever-changing selection of Cask Ales, but has arguably one of the finest interiors of any Pub in the country. Having started life as the Station's First Class Lounge, its grand 1890's tiled interior can now be enjoyed by all and makes the perfect starting point for any journey by train - if of course an excuse to pay a call were needed. So, with a copy of the Tyne Valley Line timetable and 'Whistle Stops' leaflet to hand, (Real Ale Pubs along The Hadrian's Wall Country Line), I settled down to enjoy an aptly named pint of Hadrian & Border’s Centurion, soak up the atmosphere of my magnificent surroundings and look forward to what new finds may lie ahead.

My intention had been to stop off along route, maybe enjoy the odd pint or two and indulge in a spot of lunch, however ticketing requirements, timetable restrictions and out of season pub opening times all conspired to ensure that I had to head straight on to Carlisle - I'm sure things were much simpler back in the old days, although my retro-mode of transport, in the form of a near 30 year old bus-derived train made me appreciate that the past was maybe not as perfect as I'd imagined. Suitably shaken and in need of a restorative pint, I headed out from Carlisle's Citadel and onto Lowther Street, noting the Beer Festival's venue for later reference, the imposing 'Hallmark Hotel', who's footpath signage also held echoes of the past - the London Midland & Scottish Railway having ceased to exist some 60 years earlier! 

A brief stroll brought me to the 'Howard Arms', a recommendation from CAMRA's 2012 'Good Beer Guide' - a Historic Gem of a Pub, its original tiled exterior shinning like a beacon for the weary traveller. Once through the door, the interior is less grand but clean and inviting all the same, although the beer choice is somewhat limited; Theakston Best Bitter and Caledonian Deuchars IPA. However, a pint of the later and a hearty plate of Ham, Egg and Chips and I felt ready to take on all comers. So, through 'The Lanes' and onto the 'King's Arms' - Solway CAMRA's City Pub of the Year for the last 3 years. A little worn at the edges for my liking and, although the beer selection had much to recommend an extended stay; Cumbrian favourites Yates and Keswick Breweries, for me it takes more than a pint to make a pub.

A brief stop for Coffee gave me time to reflect; surely Carlisle couldn't have run out of steam, I must just be on the wrong track and I'd be sure to see the green light soon, but little did I know that first I was about to hit the buffers. 'Whistle Stops' suggested the 'Griffin' on Court Square, so I headed back in the direction of the Station. A former bank building, the interior of which is now a typical city-centre whistles and bells offering, it taking me a while to realise that the chromed bar fittings were in fact hand pulls - mistake; the half of Dent’s Black Sheep on offer was, I can say with all honesty, the worst presented Cask Ale I've had in many a long year. If it takes more than a pint to make a pub, you haven't a hope in hells chance if you can't even get the beer right. Not exactly a showcase for one of Cumbria's finest brews.

'Kings Arms' - Carlisle City Centre Pub of the Year?

With still 40 minutes to kill before the doors opened at 'The Hallmark', a sharp right onto Botchergate brought me to 'Wetherspoon's - Lloyds No.1 Bar' the 'Woodrow Wilson' - apparently the former American President was born in Carlisle. Now, as with most 'Spoon's' outlets the venue may be a bit brash and lacking in local character, however they know the Real Ale market and you won't find a more reliable pint, or this being their own 'Festival Fortnight', (The World's Biggest Real Ale & Cider Festival - Wednesday 5th - Sunday 23rd October), such a diverse range - I certainly wasn't disappointed. My half of Brakspear's Triple was perfection, and normally only being available in bottles this slightly reduced ABV offering - 7.2% to 5.7% made a refreshing change and really restored my spirits.

With a spring in my step I headed on to the 'Hallmark', its Ballroom bright and airy, with plenty of tables and proper seating; things were definitely looking up - I'd come to Cumbria, primarily to try Local Ales and from the Beer List I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. Having used my £2.00 discounted Entry Voucher, (the trip to the 'King's' hadn't been totally in vain), exchanged £10.00 for 8 Beer Half-pint Tokens, and paid a further £2.00 deposit for a suitable glass, I settled in for a most enjoyable evening. My selection being as follows:-

Cumberland Breweries, Corby Blond 4.2%

Crystal clear, pale straw blonde ale with pronounced hop character, for me a touch on the light-side, but no doubt a great session pint, its well balanced palate and lingering finish make it very more-ish.

Cumbrian Legendary, Loweswater Gold 4.2%

Rich citrus nose, tropical fruits on the palate - pure nectar, a worthy winner of 'Champion Golden Ale of Britain 2011' and as it would turn out, probably my Festival favourite.

Greenodd Brewery, Roundabout 4.5%

Another golden brew, this with Lager Malts and New Zealand hops, offering an almost vinous nose, with Sauvignon Blanc grape gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, a real mouthful to savour.

Steel City Brewing, Sheffield Hop Infusion Team 5.7%

A trip into Yorkshire; this is hops and then some, but not too in your face. A refreshing yet heady brew, a fine pale ale packed with flavour - half way through my selection and marvelling at the sheer craftsmanship on offer.

Yates Brewery, Green Hop Bitter 4.2%

A true Cumbrian product, brewed using Green Hop Cones grown at the brewery, it's distinct, fresh flavour and rounded palate offering a long, satisfying almost semi-sweet finish.

Hardknott, Cool Fusion 4.4%

Pale straw, with a grassy nose and just a hint of spice, refreshing, thirst quenching, it's finish tempered with sweet ginger - a hit I'd imagine when paired with delicate oriental foods.

Coniston Brewing Co., Infinity IPA 6.0%

A golden, amber pale ale with fresh zesty nose and orange, lemon palate and a nicely bittered finish, which balances the sweetness of its malts - a fine, modern expression of the IPA style.

Tyne Bank Brewery, Alt Bier 4.6%

One for the road; a typical Newcastle' style Brown Ale, caramel, malt and chocolate flavours, balanced hop bitterness with spice and fruit, and a slight floral nose - lagered for two months giving a smooth, rounded finish.


In the end, my 'Awayday' therefore proved a great day out, very much meeting, even exceeding expectations, despite a few hiccups along the way. And, although my choices could only be considered as a snapshot, covering in the main only Pale/Golden Ales and just a small percentage of those on offer, let alone the myriad of other styles available; Traditional Bitter's and Mild's, through Brown Ales to Porter's and Stout's, it would have to be said the Cumbrian brewing scene appears healthy and above all full of innovation, certainly worthy of greater research!

Postscript: A picture I intended to take in the mid-1970's, but never got around to it. Back then, to think that the painted signage for the 'Maryport and Carlisle Railway Goods and Coal Depot' was still legible after at least 50 years was quite remarkable, (the company being part of the 1923 amalgamation to form the LMS; London Midland & Scottish Railway). However, nearly another 40 years later it still greets arrivals into Carlisle from the East, demonstrating quite amazing staying power; a thought I held in mind as I popped into the 'Centurion' for one last pint upon my arrival back into Newcastle'!

Going around in Circles!

One of the most widely available Cask Ales on Tyneside is the Caledonian Brewery’s Deuchars IPA. Brewed in Edinburgh at the former Lorimer & Clarke site, a traditional Victorian brewery with direct-fired copper, it is in fact one of the many brands of the global Heineken Group, formed in part by the acquisition of the old Scottish & Newcastle concern. Itself, with obvious links to Newcastle’, but as we shall also see synonymous with the name Deuchar - pronounced as in: “You’re due a Deuchars”.

Image & Trademark: © 2011 Caledonian Brewing Co. Ltd 

Robert Deuchar, who was born of humble stock in Forfarshire, Scotland arrived on Tyneside in the 1860’s, where in his early thirties we find him as a Farmer at Boldon, having already acquired some 130 acres and employing 2 labours. However, within 10 years he’d moved to Newcastle’ and into the Licensed Trade, in 1871 being resident at the old 'Chester Hotel' in Shieldfield, having previously started as an Innkeeper in Newgate Street at the 'Chancellor's Head'. 

Over the next 30 years he built-up a vast estate, converted the old brewery at Sandyford, Jesmond into extensive storage, and established the famous Duddingston Ales, back in his native Scotland - although always a Tyneside favourite.

A walk around Jesmond today still offers hints of that legacy; the Sandyford Brewery buildings, Deuchar Street were the old Cradlewell pub sits empty, and Robert’s final resting place, Jesmond Old Cemetery. For, when he died in 1904 his effects were valued at over £300,000.00 - millions by today’s standards and quite an achievement for a once humble Farm Servant; in a reverse of the old adage, drink had certainly not become the better of him.

Yet his death was not the end of this Tyneside connection, for under his son Farquhar the name of Robert Deuchar lived on for a further 50 years, the Pub Estate continuing to expand, and with it our taste for Scottish brewed ales - its purchase by Newcastle Breweries in the early 1950’s being the foundation of the combined Scottish & Newcastle group. And so to today, a pint of Deuchars IPA - brewed in Scotland, appreciated on Tyneside, the legacy of a Scotsman who lived in our midst, and proof that in life we’re forever ’Going around in Circles’!

Photo 'The Chester' 1966: © Newcastle Libraries'

A Trip to The Coast

Dominated by its ancient Priory, Tynemouth can obviously trace its origins to earlier times, however with the coming of the railways, and in particular their electrification by the North Eastern Railway in the early 1900’s, its growth as a dormitory town mushroomed, and it’s that blend of the ancient and elegant that greets today’s visitor.

Tyneside’s Metro, the latest incarnation of the ‘Coast Electric’ trains, although now some 30 years old, looks set to remain with signs of constant renewal works evident throughout the system - the point that the plug was pulled on the old L.N.E.R. infrastructure, only to be resurrected less than 12 years later . . . but that’s another story.

So arriving in Tynemouth on a trip to the Coast, as generations of Tynesider’s have done in the past and, no doubt will continue to do so for years to come, one is greeted by the splendour of the 1880’s station, (currently undergoing a further and complete restoration), its structure far greater than the needs of today’s travellers, but providing a regal portal to the delights of the town.

On a chilly, windswept Monday lunchtime, I of course hadn’t come to sample the sea air, although as events would unfold, the opportunity to blow-away a few cobwebs with a stroll on the Long Sands did ensue. No, today’s mission was to enjoy a few pints, a spot of lunch and take stock of Front Street’s historic watering holes.

My first port of call The Salutation, which despite extensive interior alterations, remains largely unaltered externally, in fact exactly as I remember it from the mid-1980’s and looking at earlier photographs doesn’t appear to have changed much in the last 100 years - a good start and the sign proclaiming a range of Local Cask Ales on offer was enough to temp me through the doors.

Cask Ale Week - 3rd to 9th October 2011

Cask Ales, one of the few growth areas in the Licensed Trade, have of course been embraced by many of the new pub chains; some do it better than others, but as a rule those with Cask Marque accreditation are generally better than others . .  . sadly the ’Sally’ didn’t quite hit the mark. Alright, my pint of Brakspear Oxford Gold wasn’t bad but it’s hardly local, and despite their promotion of Cask Ale Week, emblazoned on the walls and the chest of my host, it takes a little bit more than a reasonable £1.70 for you want to stay on and sample the hospitality.

The Turks Head, with its 1930’s tiled exterior is undoubtedly a traditional pub, and can trace its origins much further back to the late 1700’s, but it’s probably the legend of Wandering Willie, a Border Collie who having lost its master in driving sheep down from the Cheviots to North Shields, remained in the locality in the hope they’d be reunited, sadly that day never came and he remains in death a poignant feature of the pub, set in a glass fronted recess in the bar wall, where he’s cast his eye over generations of drinkers since his demise in 1880.

From street level one enters the wooden floored lower bar, which offers a time worn but obviously well cared for appearance, not a modern pastiche but an organic, evolved interior with hints to its past - cast iron mahogany topped tables, an eclectic mix of seating, colourful lead-glazed doors and windows etc., . . . and the beer didn’t disappoint either. Jarrow Brewery’s Rivet Catcher, one of my favourite LocAles, was as good as it comes, and testament to the adage that the secret to a good pint is more than the sum of its parts; Cask Ale is not a marriage of convenience!

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012

Suitably refreshed, it was time to move on and find that spot of lunch I’d promised myself, and possibly squeeze in another pint . . . so retracing my steps I arrived at the Cumberland Arms, another gem of a pub with a traditional feel, and despite its 1890’s exterior being shadowed by a modern Carlsberg delivery lorry, I knew from old that there’d be a much better offering inside.

Settling into the Lower Deck of this nautical themed bar, I was immediately welcomed by the ever friendly staff, a pint of Springhead Maid Marian to hand and the prospect of an All Day Breakfast on the horizon. And what a feast; two of everything and a stack of chips to boot, served promptly and at £4.95 a real bargain . . . a further reminder of what’s good about the English Pub and why the best continue to flourish. However, good hospitality can lead to temptation, and having freely sampled the remaining ales on offer, one too many pints ensued, hence the aforementioned stroll on the beach, but a fitting end to a trip to the Coast.

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012


Image © Cumberland Arms, Tynemouth, see website:
www.cumberlandarms.co.uk

Time Gentlemen Please!

Born and bred in Newcastle’s West End were pub culture, or at least some form of drinking, was and is very much a part of daily life, however today you’d be hard pressed to find a ‘local’ pub, the opportunities for popping up the road for a quick pint, having all but disappeared. Even thirty years ago in my youth the choices were limited, not necessarily due to availability but, certain establishments were considered a brave man’s choice, and certainly not somewhere you’d call in uninvited. Back then the ‘Prince of Wales’ and ‘Fox & Hounds’, situated at either extreme of the West Road, would have been considered the only ‘safe’ ports of call - one now trading as an Indian Restaurant and the other, although still operating as a pub, has for my tastes only a token ‘Real Ale’ offering. Now, I can’t say if the pubs of old would have fared any better, but armed with an old OS Map and a copy of Slater’s 1890 Directory, here for posterity is an overview of the establishments within ’staggering distance’ of my own front door, although back then you’d have been returning to a field!


Belgrave Hotel, 1 Belgrave Terrace & 127 Mill Lane

http://www.flickr.com/photos/newcastlelibraries/4080807782/

Swept away in the 1970s’s, at the time of the redevelopment of the nearby Jubilee Estate, the upper terraces of Mill Lane are now flanked by a row of Industrial Units. However, the legacy of its original owner Alexander Laing, a successful Newcastle’ Beer, Wine & Spirit Merchant, lives on in his bequest to the City, ‘The Laing Art Gallery‘ - his 'High-Hopped' India Pale Ale, which in 1854 he offered at 2/6d per dozen pints, certainly sounds a delicious bargain! 

Bentinck Arms, 3 Mill Lane, Elswick

At the time of our enquiry the owner would appear to be one Emanuel Young, with an Annie Child and Kate Lavan shown in the 1891 Census as Worker in Bar and Barmaid respectively. The Pub however didn’t survive long into the 20th century, being replaced by a new building ‘The Portland Arms’ when the Bentinck Estate was built in the 1920’s. Although this remains intact, it ceased to operate as a pub within the last 5 years and now trades as a Turkish Restaurant. 

Benwell Hotel, 1 Cochran Street & Adelaide Terrace

The present building would appear to date to 1901, and although the OS Map doesn’t show the Cochran Street premises as a Public House, the Directory confirms otherwise with a Mrs A. (Ann) Gray at the helm, who in the Census is described as a widowed ’Hotel Proprietor’, living with amongst others her 17 year old son, and both 15 and 13 year old daughters, all of whom are shown as Barman/Barmaids!


Back to the future; the building although empty is currently advertised as To Let for Retail Units, so hopefully it may rise again.  

Chesterfield Arms, Elswick Road

Once the home to the famous ‘Elswick Harriers‘, this is the only pub of our selection which still remains and operates as licensed premises. However, should you choose to pay a visit, being as fleet of foot as those early running club members may be an advantage. Originally a W. B. Reid house, owners of the ‘Leazes Brewery’, its manager in 1891 a John Shipley describes himself as running a ‘Spirit Bar’, so one assumes it’s always been the home to the hard stuff!

Crown Hotel, 4 Ravensworth View, Elswick Road

Sadly, once again nothing remains of this iconic ‘Newcastle Breweries’ pub, I remember its corporate black, cream and red-lined frontage from my youth. Demolished and the site left abandoned since the 1970’s, the only drinking (or worse) now taking place in its vicinity is by underage kids or ‘Lambrinolics’ behind the fenced-off plot - William Martin its original manager must be turning in his grave.




Photo: © Geoff Phillips, 'Old Pubs of Newcastle' 1995   

Mill Inn, 403 Westgate Road (actually 413 Westgate Road)

So we come to are last port of call, and having touched on the ‘Mill Inn’ in an earlier post, (see ‘The Mill Inn . . . and what might have been’), I won’t go round in circles and repeat myself. But, I’m sure if its 1890’s manager James Storey, who as a widow brought up his four children on the premises, would have been shocked by its later repute and subsequent demise. Although, given the means I'm sure we could set the wind in its sails again. 


That’s 5 pubs in less than a ½m, excluding those on Scotswood Road - the walk up the bank would probably do you in anyway, and with much of the land west of Grainger Park Road still being undeveloped at this time, the additional choices which would come (and eventually go), with the building of new housing through to the 1940’s, of course don’t get a mention.

So a little bit of nostalgia; if you would you like to share your memories, have any family anecdotes or even photographs, Rod Coran would love to hear from you - you could start by dropping us a line in the comments section? And, having unearthed in my Grandfather’s papers, extracts of what looks like an early post-war directory for Scotswood Road, with all the Public Houses diligently marked, I feel an overview of the ’Great Pub Crawl’ could also be on the cards. We haven’t quite shouted; ’Time Gentlemen Please’!

‘Summer Lightning’

When applying a brand to any product, unless it’s promoted to a wider audience, consumer choice is inevitably based on the actual item, in this case a Golden Ale at 5% ABV, and the image it conveys or feelings it evokes, therefore ‘Hop Back Breweries’ Summer Lightning had to be the perfect choice, given our recent abysmal summer weather!

The 'Brewery based on the outskirts of Salisbury, has from humble beginnings in the backyard of a pub, grown into one the bigger players in the ’Real Ale’ market, with it’s own tied Pub Estate, leading to a recent floatation on the Stock Market. Summer Lightning remains its flagship ale, in both Cask Conditioned and bottled formats - its chance encounter in my local ‘Morrison’s’ (£1.75/500ml - or 4 for £5.50), for the aforementioned reasons made it a ’no brainer’ as to tonight’s choice.

Pouring a rich golden hue and taking care not to disturb its heavy sediment, a light frothy head topped off the glass, with noticeable sparkle keeping it more or less in place for the duration, with a hoppy freshness on the nose. The palate however proved a tad thin, despite its heady ABV, yet its balanced malt/fruit flavours held to a lingering bitter finish. Not for me one of the finest bottled beers I’ve encountered, but drinkable all the same. Sadly, like its multiple awards emblazoned on the bottle back-label, they like memories of summers past are seemingly long gone!

Free Beer @ The Bodega!

Now, as I’ve said previously, I’m partial to the odd afternoon pint when time and commitments allow. My watering-hole of choice, should a brief interlude present itself, would usually be Newcastle’s ’The Bodega’, a Sir John Fitzgerald house at the foot of historic Westgate Hill - just after the Motorcycle Shops and before the start of the City Centre proper.

Usually quite, without the draw of a Bar Menu, the ‘Real Ales’ on offer however make up for any deficiency, there being an ever-changing range of some nine hand-pulls, a house regular ‘Big Lamp’s’ Prince Bishop, 4.8% ABV/£2.65 being my usual choice. However, and I’m not suggesting you try this in one go, but for each pint bought between 12 and 5pm, they’ll give you a stamped card, and when you get to number six, a free pint is on offer. Simple!

So today, after some 3-4 visits spaced over the last four weeks or so, I collected my sixth stamp and approached the bar expecting the choice to be from the ’Chemical Bros.’ collection but, was pleasanty supprised that I had the full ’Real Ale’ range at my dispossal. Not being a greedy so and so I’d have happily stayed with the Prince Bishop, however having partaken of their delicious ’Jalepeno Crisps’, something with a little more bite was called for - Nottingham’s ’Castle Rock’ Crayfish IPA, 6% ABV/usually £3.00, certainly fitted the bill.

Brewed on a changing monthly basis, ‘Castle Rock’ offers a different ale in conjuction with the ‘Wildlife Trust‘, each highlighting an endangered British Species, August being the indigenous Crayfish and the threat from a virus carried by the American Signal, originally introduced to the UK as a farmed alternative, but now appearing in increasing numbers in the wild. The beer however presents no such problems; pouring a rich golden hue with soon disappearing creamy head, a light vinous nose leading to a soft lemon zest palate, with rounded bitter finish. Not a true IPA in my book but a great beer nethertheless - and free!

Grasping the Nettle . . . and a Postscript on Durham!

My part of Newcastle’ may have changed beyond recognition, even within my half-century, but how my Tyneside ancestors would have viewed the evolution of their City is beyond comprehension. However, take a short drive into the Northumberland countryside and the vista is undoubtedly one they’d still recognise, with many of the traditional ways of life still intact, albeit with some adaptation to the demands of modern living. So near but so far . . . one day!

High House Farm near Matfen is only twenty-five minute’s by car from Newcastle’s City Centre; set amongst rolling fields, streams and woodland, this 200 acre working farm also boasts a fine restaurant and on-site Brew House - what better location for a late lunch and chance to recharge your batteries? And, in no time here we are - an excellent Platter and Pint awaits me (or half, I am driving of course), Nel’s Best living up to her ‘Best Bitter in the North’ Gold Award. The meal, three courses in one is taken at a leisurely pace, the beer not so but if restraint is the only downside, I can live with that, although plans are to hand to rectify matters later.

Of course no visit would be complete without a browse around the ‘Brewery; the viewing platform in the malt loft and its exhibition giving a good overview of the brewing process and, the opportunity to ’nose’ the various malts and hops used on site. All too quickly however we’re on our way - remember restraint being today‘s byword, but not before the purchase of a curiosity. ‘High House Farm Brewery’ Nettle Beer is a light amber coloured ale based on a 14th century recipe, made with nettles grown on the farm and said to be a cure for the common cold and gout. Try as I might to induce a bout of gout I can’t confirm that statement, however the beer is extremely palatable; soft, rounded with a hint of hop bitter and sweet caramel. A great albeit potent (4.5% ABV), summer thirst-quencher, assuming we get some sun to punctuate these insessent showers of late!

It’s said that you can’t get too much of a good thing, so having indulged in my fair share of the ‘Durham Breweries’ excellent products of late, the thought of sampling just a few more was to the forefront of my mind, Hexham’s ’Waitrose’ store being my destination and not an unpleasant drive. A deserted Military Road up to Stagshaw, and then over the tops and down through Anwick, and no I didn’t call into the ’Rat’, as tempting as it might seem. And tonight’s selection: St Cuthbert, 6.5% ABV - Special India Pale Ale (x2), and the icing on the cake; Temptation, 10% ABV - Imperial Russian Stout. Surfice to say I slept well, thoughts of a strong, aromatic India Pale Ale, with citrus hop palate and clean finish, tempered by the luscious malt and caramel of a perfectly formed yet complex Imperial Russian Stout to the fore.

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Update: ‘High Elswick Brewery’ - all seems well . . . bloop, bloop. Need I say more!