High Elswick Brewery - Newcastle's latest Micro!

Well it’s Monday morning and the first brew from Newcastle’s latest Micro, ’High Elswick Brewery’ is coming along nicely - ok, it's just a poly-bin in the bath, but we all have to start somewhere. Hopefully come the weekend we’ll be bottling our finished beer, an English Style Barley Wine, our adage as ever quality over quantity . . . the aim being around 3 gallons/24 pints at 7.0% ABV, a judicious bit of kit-bashing giving an added hop attack!

Watch this space for details!         

It’s all about the Beer . . . or, a Hop, Skip and a Jump!

CAMRA’s (Campaign for Real Ale) ‘Tyneside Pub of the Year’, either as outright winner or runner-up for the last 6 years, ‘The Newcastle Arms’ in the heart of Newcastle’s Gallowgate is undoubtedly a drinkers Pub . . . no pretence, what you get is what you see and that is a superb, ever rotating range of Cask Conditioned Beers, hence the accolade. However, would I want to spend a whole evening within its hallowed portals, probably not - gone are the beered-up days of my youth when the ’Arms was a favourite Tuesday night regular, topped-off with a sing-a-long around the piano!

It’s raining again; what ever did become of Global Warming and the promise of long, lazy Summer Days . . . just managed to palm the kids off on Grannie, and I’ve the prospect of a quick pint before being back on Kitchen Duty and a night of ’X-Factor’ etc. - definitely need something to dull the pain. So called to the ‘Arm’s, and what a pint was in store.

‘Summer Wine Brewery’s’ (yes, they’re based in Holmfirth, as in the BBC’s Last of the . . . etc.) Seven ‘C’s West Coast IPA, in tribute to the American Craft Brewing scene, this heady 7% ABV Pale Ale bittered with Columbus, Centennal, Chinook, Cascade, Crystal, Cluster and Citra, yes that’s seven different hop varieties - pours a deep orange amber with creamy off-white head, the nose not hinting at the extreme hop attack to come . . . a huge mouthfull of bitter-sweet, yet rounded citrus flavours, that linger to the very finish and beyond. Truly a pint to savour!

And some more; well OK time for a quick-half but how to follow that, shall we try ‘Thornbridge’s’ Geminus - 8.5% ABV, advertised as a Dark Pale Ale with Double Rye Hops? Well it’s a sister to my . . . and quickly becoming the 'circuts' favourite Jaipur, so I’m sure it will be good and boy, I wasn’t wrong. Rich golden amber, with a light wispy head, malt and tropical fruits on the nose, leading to a complex, luscious multi-layered palate of pure decadence yet, is easy to drink and cry’s out hops and then some, leaving you contemplating a further hit . . .

But, sadly my time on the hop had come; lets say we’ll skip the loos - well as I said you come here for the beer and wouldn‘t want to spoil the experience, jump on the bus and head home for a night of reality, your brief escape a lasting memory!

A Pilgrimage to Durham

My intention had been to offer two separate posts, however circumstances caught up with me; the taxi at the door at the start of my second day beckoned, before I could post details of the first. So, the following is set out as originally written, but with ’Day-breaks’ and additional postscript notes in red. There, clearer than the haze the morning after the night before!

Day One

With prospect of the impending 31st Durham Beer Festival in mind, thoughts turned to making the necessary arrangements for the pilgrimage to Durham, suitably aided by a pint of Big Lamp’s Prince Bishop (originally brewed for and winner of the Best Beer at the 1994 ’Festival) in probably one of the most ornately adorned Pub’s in the North East, ‘The Bodega‘, with its two huge glass domes above the bar, which I believe date to the 1920’s when the premises were part of a Music Hall. The plan hatched; visit ‘Fenwick’s‘ the Newcastle’ Department Store and its impressive Wine Shop, purchase a selection of The Durham Breweries superb bottle-conditioned beers; Magic IPA, 7.0% - £2.69, Benedictus, 8.4% - £2.89 and Bede’s Chalice, 9.0%, and enjoy a quiet evening in anticipation of the day ahead! 

Maybe not the most imaginatively named beer, Magic IPA - thankfully, soon to be re-branded Bombay 106, was nevertheless a ‘magic’ way to start the evening; a true India Pale Ale, with a good 7% ABV backbone and lots of English Goldings Hops. Pouring an opaque light amber, (I should have let it settle longer after disturbing its sediment in transit), with lively, long lasting head, its faint soft nose belying a rounded and full palate with hints of burnt orange, leading to a long satisfying finish. A truly impressive beer, which if its cask equivalent is at the same level, as I’m sure it will, it bodes well for tomorrow evening (tonight) as well. Magic IPA has in fact morphed into Bombay 106 (see details below), but was only available in bottle form, the confusion being on my part. 

Moving on to Benedictus, which I must point out was after a suitable pause, (these are not ’session’ beers and deserve to be appreciated with respect and all due reverence), this classic Barley Wine I find a great accompaniment to simple traditional fare; freshly baked Crusty Bread, Mature Cheddar Cheese and what could be better with a pint (OK, 500ml) than a Pork and Egg Pie, with early-season English Cox Apples on hand for added bite. This is not a canned and carbonated pastiche, its deep amber and luscious rounded appearance is carried through to the palate, where balanced sweet mouthfilling flavours mingle, tempered by a hint of hoppy bitterness. For me pure nectar, which in combination afforded a meal of contemplative silence, as in the true monastic tradition.

And my final tipple of the triple a Tripel, which unlike the contents of Bede’s Chalice (my notes simply say ‘Belgian Tripel Style at its very best!’) this statement doesn’t quite trip of the tongue, but its late in the day, I’ve enjoyed three or am part way through enjoying the third of three beautifully crafted beers, and as I offer a toast to the success of the first part of my pilgrimage, I drift off in to slumber in the knowledge that the ‘Holy Grail’ awaits my rising! The Festival Program advises that Marris Otter Malt with Wheat and Vienna Malt, a charge of Corriander and judicious American Centennial Hops combine to produce this ’sweetish, luscious and fruity experience’, and if that’s not Belgian I don’t know what is!

Day Two

The outline for the day ahead was for a mid-morning start. Take the bus into Durham, have a spot of lunch and soak up the atmosphere, before presenting myself (CAMRA’s Durham Beer Trail of 10 of The Best City Centre Real Ale Pub’s will have to wait for another day) at 5pm for the opening round of the 31st Durham Beer Festival, held once again at Dunelm House (although there are rumblings that a change of venue may be on the cards), the home of the Durham Students Union. The journey passed uneventfully; did see a Thwaites dray . . . must check that out, and the now familiar forest of forlorn Pub to Let signs, mind you the ‘Jalopy’ that passed as the ‘Express Bus’ made me thankful that I don’t have too many fillings - must remember to get the train back upon my return, just to be on the safe side!

Entry to the venue was as usual well organised; hand over a ’tenner’, receive a Festival Glass, nicely printed Program, Voting Slip and not forgetting 4 Beer (or Cider) tokens, and after negotiating the stairs down to the Main Hall, remembering that trips to the loo and the purchase of further tokens would require measured assent, the evening could begin. And the plan . . . well, maybe three hours max, probably no more than 4 pints, which would equate to only eight beers out of the over 100 on offer - quality over quantity every time, and as we shall see a pattern slowly emerged.

Ouseburn Elderflower Gold, 4.1% - a relatively new ‘local’ brewer; the beer pours thinly and its pale colour highlights this facet, however it drinks fresh, light and has some bitterness on the finish. Satisfying if somewhat underwhelming - a good ’session’ beer.    

Arran Blonde, 5.0% - served a tad cold for me, but it is from North o’ the Border, nevertheless this award winning Wheat Beer lived up to the hype. Pouring lemon-gold with a delicate floral hop aroma, this clean tasting almost Continental style beer abounds with character and offers a long, lingering dry finish.

Thornbridge Jaipur IPA, 5.9% - one of my anticipated stars, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Not strictly an IPA in my book but exotic all the same. Citrus fruits, massive hoppiness and a long mouthfilling finish - a real beer to savour.   

Wadworth Bishops Tipple, 5.0% - a Devizes brew and chosen as much for its origins; I spent a number of years in Wiltshire, as for the prospect of its dark golden hue, full flavoured palate and balanced hoppy finish - a tough act after Jaipur, but . . . it held up well.   

Glebe Farm Gladiator Spelt Beer, 4.2% - somewhat of a departure and not strictly a Real Ale, but served chilled from a poly-pack at the ‘Bottle Bar’, this is a piece of living history, a brew enjoyed by our Roman forebears - light, flavoursome and with a surprising punch!  

Stables Silver Buckles, 4.4% - heralded as a light, golden pale ale with a dry, yet citrus fruit finish, I’m sure it lived up to its billing but, try as I might there’s nothing in my mental notes to confirm this - it can’t have been bad though, so that’s a plus.

Durham Cuthbert’s Cross 4.7% - must have been going through a fatigued stage, as at first I couldn’t quite get to grips with this one, yet another golden brew, however its strong, fulsome flavour soon won through, offering a rich fruity palate and long lasting, satisfying finish. 

Wylam Silver Ghost, 5.0% - an intriguing brew which I subsequently voted my favourite of this short selection; a strong typical English Pale Ale, with great balance and lots flavour, which kept me enthralled from start to finish - sometimes it’s the quite one’s that most surprise!

Durham Redemption, 10% - not for comparison but purely for pleasure, enabling me to gather my thoughts before departure - a massive, complex mouthful of sweet toffee apple and bitter orange flavours, due for release in bottle in time for Christmas 2011 . . . I for one will be at the head of the queue.

A pleasant evening and although the chosen range of beers may have been of a similar hue, the contrast in styles was immense and for me, the beauty of a festival such as this is that very opportunity. So, with a bottle of the re-branded Durham, Bombay 106, 7% to hand, (named after the 106th Brigade of the East India Trading Company, who later became the 2nd Battalion of the Durham Light Infantry), I headed home my pilgrimage complete, all things Durham having been perfect!

Thwaites . . . and the Blackburn Brickwall!

Born within staggering distance of Daniel Thwaites Blackburn Brewery, my Great, Great Grandfather may not have moved in the same circles as this enduring dynasty, we after all come from less industrious stock, but would have been aware of the importance of the Penny Street establishment to the town, for the Woollen Mills where he was destined to spend his childhood, could not have functioned without the prospect of their toiling workers being able to whet their thirst, at the end of a long hard day at the loom.

Blackburn is of course no longer the powerhouse it once was, and I’m sure John Bamford would be unable to recognise the streets were he was born, (James Street’s exotic buildings being more akin to those of Mauritius, were he’d later serve with the British Army in the 1860‘s), and now the news that the Brewery is to relocate from the town centre, brings to a close another chapter on our fast disappearing heritage and culture - its not only in my native North East!

Now, I’ve been a fan of Thwaites bottle conditioned Old Dan (Morrison’s, 29/08/11 - 330ml, £1.65) for a long while; a delicious mellow beer, with soft malty palate, beautiful chestnut hue and a long, smooth finish, which at 7.4% ABV is more suited to quite contemplation than a ‘session’ brew, but despite my tenuous links to its home, the chance to sample the Breweries more everyday offerings have been few and far between. Enter Thwaites Wainwright (Walkers - my local Newsagent of some 40 years standing, 30/08/11 - 500ml, £1.89) which in its bottled form is currently a ‘International Brewing Awards’ Gold Medal Winner in its class, and has always received better than average reviews from those with discerning palates.

In researching my ‘Family Tree‘ I have from time to time, metaphorically speaking come across many a brick-wall, the point where despite your best endeavours and taking all the available evidence into consideration, you can’t quite see beyond that barrier. My Blackburn roots are a prime example; John’s parents Joseph Bamford and Ann Chambers just don’t seem to exist before or after his birth. And, sadly so it is with Wainwright, yes the traditional bottle is bedecked with details of its prestigious award, the beer pours an ’exquisitely lovely’ golden hue, with lively but fast disappearing head, hints of citrus hops on the nose . . . and the palate, well it left me wanting more - something’s there but sadly I just couldn’t find it!    

The Mill Inn . . . and what might have been!

So it’s Bank Holiday Monday and the prospect of tasting a range of fine English Wines in the heart of the beautiful Northumberland countryside beckoned. However, although the day dawned bright, after what seems now to be the August norm of overnight showers, it was frankly quite chilly and more like an October morning. What to do . . . wrap up and brave it out or, wimp out and see what’s on offer at the local supermarket - oh, and throw in a touch of nostalgia for good measure?

Two bottles of Springbank’s excellent Roaring Meg (Morrison’s, 29/08/11 - 500ml, £1.75 or 4 for £5.50!) later; pouring golden yellow with a soft melting head, sweet citrus notes and a full rounded palate, leading to a long, dry finish - I guess that tells you which option I plumped for. And the nostalgia . . . well, 'The Mill Inn’ was another Newcastle’ West End ’boozer’ with a reputation, which despite it’s past misdemeanours is sad to see boarded up, especially as it remains for the moment one of our few heritage buildings, (built prior to the urbanisation of 1870’s), and a beacon to the ever-changing cultural landscape of this part of the world.

A quick ’Google’ search offered the following: ‘The Mill Inn‘, 413 Westgate Road, built on the line of the Roman Wall, founding home of the Northern Rugby Club in 1875, once a Cameron’s House but lately part of the Empire Inns group, scene of potential Money Laundering, a 5* rating for Hygiene from Newcastle City Council . . . what, and sadly the ground floor ’severely damaged’ by fire in July 2010. And from its heyday, the offer of £200.00 to anyone who could call in for a pint unannounced of a Friday night and live to tell the tale!

Fancy a rescue job . . . have a few pounds to spare? Maybe throw in a Micro-Brewery for good measure, and buck the trend of Kebab Shops, Continental Foods et al - Rod Coran’s your man!

Curry v Beer - Round Two

Finding myself unexpectedly in Robinson’s country with a free Friday on my hands, the thought of how to fill my time, like the fabled Crusoe himself, turned to making the most of what was to hand, well . . . after making a further detour south that was, and if you’re going to land on someone unannounced, what better gift than a Curry and a Beer? Add to which, the opportunity to further my quest, was not to be missed!

The ‘Bengal Spice’ on Long Eaton’s Market Place, is like many a Curry House up and down the land, maybe not the sort of place you’d immediately walk in off the street, yes it’s had a make-over in the last few years, but still doesn’t quite shout its appeal. However, once through the door and seated and you’ve experienced the food you’ll keep going back - their Curries are consistently good. And so it was with my takeaway, a Naga Lamb and Garlic Rice, with a few Chapattis served up for good measure, but what about the beer? Well if we’re talking big flavours, it had to be a BrewDog, and for maximum attack, not one but two, both their Punk and Hardcore IPA’s (Sainsbury 26/08/11 - 330ml, £1.49/£2.05).

BrewDog, like their name and marketing are somewhat unconventional, I personally don’t buy into it - see www.BrewDog.com/EquityforPunks (no pun intended), however these are ‘uncompromising, bold and irreverent’ beers, packed with flavour and that I do like. Punk: straw gold, citrus notes, big finish, Hardcore: amber, brooding, complex - a match for the curry? Well, on this occasion events overtook themselves; a first class feast and two outstanding beers, each savoured for what they were, my host being likewise impressed. Trying to package as a whole proved impossible, a night of quiet contemplation therefore ensued, and it was roundly agreed that we really must do it all again sometime. The quest continues!

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Missed opportunities? The Harrington Arms Beer Festival this Bank Holiday weekend at Sawley and a sign on the A52 for Real Ales at Mr Grundy’s, neither of which I had time to investigate. 

Curry v Beer - Round One

‘There is no sincerer love, than the love of good food ‘ . . . now, I’m not sure who first coined the phrase, but it features on the cover of my local Indian Takeaway Menu, and like a lot of Brit’s a Curry is now one of our favourite dishes. However, finding either a Wine or Beer which offers the perfect accompaniment can be a dilemma, compounded by a culture which in the main shuns alcohol, but for commercial reasons has embraced the soulless, global fizzy Lager phenomena, with likes of their Kingfisher and Cobra brands - I’m yet to catch up with a Mongoose!

When dinning out I usually stick with Mineral Water, the thought of pumping myself full of CO², like some over-inflated balloon has never appealed. Likewise, subjecting my palate to the rigours of a ’Blossom Falls’ or ’Echo Hill’, those supermarket standards served at inflated prices, leaves me truly uninspired. That said, when I occasionally come across a Chenin Blanc, be it a French original from the Loire, or its more luscious cousins from South Africa, they seem to have enough edge not to be too swamped by the complexities of the Curry experience.

My own preference is for a simple Lamb dish, in so much that it has not been subjected to the rigors of the Tandoor, the blend of spices and herbs infused into a rich sauce, with just sufficient residual heat to temper my progress, allowing me to savour the dish and appreciate its myriad of flavours - see www.thebindi.com and their Nawabi Lamb as a prime example.

Having given the subject a lot of thought, I think possibly the best match to this type of dish could be an IPA, the fabled India Pale Ale, traditionally the most flavoursome of beers, heavily hopped to withstand the rigours of the arduous sea voyage, allowing their complexity to develop and mature in transit - well if it was good enough in the Days of the Raj, surely it should be worth a try, but not in one sitting, no . . . I see this as an ongoing experiment!

Nawabi Lamb v Thornbridge Jaipur* (Waitrose, 22/08/11 - £2.25, 500ml)

Well first off the name’s spot-on and even the label background has a hint of the finest flocked wallpaper, befitting of many of the nation’s more traditional Curry Houses. Surprisingly, it pours a rich golden hue, (I’m more used to those displaying a burnt amber edge, but it is non the worse for it and pleasing nevertheless), with finely bubbled head and hints of wine on the nose, the palate soft and smooth, builds to a rich hoppiness with complex, lingering bitter finish - great on its own, but sadly the curry won through on this occasion, Jaipur just managing a whisper above the Nawabi’s building crescendo of flavours.

So, an inconclusive but promising start, leaving much open to debate, however I’m sure that we will find a beer in all sincerity to match our love of good food . . . and in particular a Curry!  

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* Available on draught at the forthcoming CAMRA Durham Beer Festival, 1-3 September 2011, and for me one of my anticipated highlights.