‘English wines, vinified from grapes grown in our southern counties, should not be confused with the ‘sherry’ like British Wine, mass produced from imported foreign musts. Although borrowing traditions from many of our vinous neighbours, the resultant wines are quintessentially English, being a true expression of our soils and climate.’ A few sentences I wrote some 18 years ago, when launching my first Wine Venture - a time when the thought of selling English Wine, to even the knowledgeable few, was an up-hill struggle.
Casting my eye over the ‘What’s on’ page in my Local Weekly Paper, I noticed an advertisement for an English Wine (& Cider) Festival, to be held on August Bank Holiday Monday . . . wow, after all this time English Wine’s gone mainstream, or was it just another enterprising way to promote an up and coming Eatery, (that being my own entry into the Trade), time to investigate in due course, but in the meantime a look back at a few of my own selections from 1993*, and how their producers have faired in the intervening years.
Regatta 1991
The Thames Valley Vineyard, Twyford, Berkshire
A blend of Ortega and Schonburger, off described as a ‘Lightweight New Zealand’ . . . think zesty Sauvignon Blanc, but more refined and none the worse for it!
Now marketed under the Stanlake Park name, this Estate planted by Jon Leighton in the late 1970’s, is still in production producing both their own wines, (will try and track down the current 2008 Regatta and attempt a comparison), and those of other producers.
Fume 1992
Wickham Vineyard, Wickham, Hampshire
Crisp, gooseberry fruit flavours, with a rich rounded palate and slightly oaked finish, this Bacchus/Reichensteiner combo is a current House of Commons favourite.
Wickham’ has gone from strength to strength; more than doubling its production, its well equipped winery, with temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels, is one of the best in the country - a Special Release Fume 2010 still features on their lists.
Westholme Late Harvest 1992
Pilton Manor, Pilton, Somerset
Jim Dowling’s estate was in the vanguard of the English Wine revival; this rich, prune and sweet-apricot flavoured Dessert Wine is a true ’classic’, with subtle Noble’ pungent overlay.
Gone but not forgotten. A real surprise to find that this estate no longer exists; the family having in part handed it over to a Community Orchard Product - maybe we’ll see its Cider in the future reach the same heights!
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*As featured in Grapevine: Kathryn McWhirter on English Wine, The Independent, 20/02/1994
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