It may just be a coincidence, but it would seem that many a Cask Ale drinker of a certain age spent their youthful leisure hours at the end of a railway platform, the pursuit of Train-spotting I guess being similar to Beer Ticking, insomuch that you're always wanting to complete the set. Back in the 1970's, although Newcastle' and its environs offered a diverse choice for the railway enthusiast, you knew that there was a completely different world some sixty miles away at the foot of Hadrian's Wall; Carlisle was always a rewarding 'Awayday' destination. Fast forward to 2011, and the prospect of Solway CAMRA's Carlisle Beer Festival was met with similar anticipation.
The 'Centurion' in Newcastle's Central Station not only boasts an ever-changing selection of Cask Ales, but has arguably one of the finest interiors of any Pub in the country. Having started life as the Station's First Class Lounge, its grand 1890's tiled interior can now be enjoyed by all and makes the perfect starting point for any journey by train - if of course an excuse to pay a call were needed. So, with a copy of the Tyne Valley Line timetable and 'Whistle Stops' leaflet to hand, (Real Ale Pubs along The Hadrian's Wall Country Line), I settled down to enjoy an aptly named pint of Hadrian & Border’s Centurion, soak up the atmosphere of my magnificent surroundings and look forward to what new finds may lie ahead.
My intention had been to stop off along route, maybe enjoy the odd pint or two and indulge in a spot of lunch, however ticketing requirements, timetable restrictions and out of season pub opening times all conspired to ensure that I had to head straight on to Carlisle - I'm sure things were much simpler back in the old days, although my retro-mode of transport, in the form of a near 30 year old bus-derived train made me appreciate that the past was maybe not as perfect as I'd imagined. Suitably shaken and in need of a restorative pint, I headed out from Carlisle's Citadel and onto Lowther Street, noting the Beer Festival's venue for later reference, the imposing 'Hallmark Hotel', who's footpath signage also held echoes of the past - the London Midland & Scottish Railway having ceased to exist some 60 years earlier!
A brief stroll brought me to the 'Howard Arms', a recommendation from CAMRA's 2012 'Good Beer Guide' - a Historic Gem of a Pub, its original tiled exterior shinning like a beacon for the weary traveller. Once through the door, the interior is less grand but clean and inviting all the same, although the beer choice is somewhat limited; Theakston Best Bitter and Caledonian Deuchars IPA. However, a pint of the later and a hearty plate of Ham, Egg and Chips and I felt ready to take on all comers. So, through 'The Lanes' and onto the 'King's Arms' - Solway CAMRA's City Pub of the Year for the last 3 years. A little worn at the edges for my liking and, although the beer selection had much to recommend an extended stay; Cumbrian favourites Yates and Keswick Breweries, for me it takes more than a pint to make a pub.
A brief stop for Coffee gave me time to reflect; surely Carlisle couldn't have run out of steam, I must just be on the wrong track and I'd be sure to see the green light soon, but little did I know that first I was about to hit the buffers. 'Whistle Stops' suggested the 'Griffin' on Court Square, so I headed back in the direction of the Station. A former bank building, the interior of which is now a typical city-centre whistles and bells offering, it taking me a while to realise that the chromed bar fittings were in fact hand pulls - mistake; the half of Dent’s Black Sheep on offer was, I can say with all honesty, the worst presented Cask Ale I've had in many a long year. If it takes more than a pint to make a pub, you haven't a hope in hells chance if you can't even get the beer right. Not exactly a showcase for one of Cumbria's finest brews.
'Kings Arms' - Carlisle City Centre Pub of the Year?
With still 40 minutes to kill before the doors opened at 'The Hallmark', a sharp right onto Botchergate brought me to 'Wetherspoon's - Lloyds No.1 Bar' the 'Woodrow Wilson' - apparently the former American President was born in Carlisle. Now, as with most 'Spoon's' outlets the venue may be a bit brash and lacking in local character, however they know the Real Ale market and you won't find a more reliable pint, or this being their own 'Festival Fortnight', (The World's Biggest Real Ale & Cider Festival - Wednesday 5th - Sunday 23rd October), such a diverse range - I certainly wasn't disappointed. My half of Brakspear's Triple was perfection, and normally only being available in bottles this slightly reduced ABV offering - 7.2% to 5.7% made a refreshing change and really restored my spirits.
With a spring in my step I headed on to the 'Hallmark', its Ballroom bright and airy, with plenty of tables and proper seating; things were definitely looking up - I'd come to Cumbria, primarily to try Local Ales and from the Beer List I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. Having used my £2.00 discounted Entry Voucher, (the trip to the 'King's' hadn't been totally in vain), exchanged £10.00 for 8 Beer Half-pint Tokens, and paid a further £2.00 deposit for a suitable glass, I settled in for a most enjoyable evening. My selection being as follows:-
Cumberland Breweries, Corby Blond 4.2%
Crystal clear, pale straw blonde ale with pronounced hop character, for me a touch on the light-side, but no doubt a great session pint, its well balanced palate and lingering finish make it very more-ish.
Cumbrian Legendary, Loweswater Gold 4.2%
Rich citrus nose, tropical fruits on the palate - pure nectar, a worthy winner of 'Champion Golden Ale of Britain 2011' and as it would turn out, probably my Festival favourite.
Greenodd Brewery, Roundabout 4.5%
Another golden brew, this with Lager Malts and New Zealand hops, offering an almost vinous nose, with Sauvignon Blanc grape gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, a real mouthful to savour.
Steel City Brewing, Sheffield Hop Infusion Team 5.7%
A trip into Yorkshire; this is hops and then some, but not too in your face. A refreshing yet heady brew, a fine pale ale packed with flavour - half way through my selection and marvelling at the sheer craftsmanship on offer.
Yates Brewery, Green Hop Bitter 4.2%
A true Cumbrian product, brewed using Green Hop Cones grown at the brewery, it's distinct, fresh flavour and rounded palate offering a long, satisfying almost semi-sweet finish.
Hardknott, Cool Fusion 4.4%
Pale straw, with a grassy nose and just a hint of spice, refreshing, thirst quenching, it's finish tempered with sweet ginger - a hit I'd imagine when paired with delicate oriental foods.
Coniston Brewing Co., Infinity IPA 6.0%
A golden, amber pale ale with fresh zesty nose and orange, lemon palate and a nicely bittered finish, which balances the sweetness of its malts - a fine, modern expression of the IPA style.
Tyne Bank Brewery, Alt Bier 4.6%
One for the road; a typical Newcastle' style Brown Ale, caramel, malt and chocolate flavours, balanced hop bitterness with spice and fruit, and a slight floral nose - lagered for two months giving a smooth, rounded finish.
In the end, my 'Awayday' therefore proved a great day out, very much meeting, even exceeding expectations, despite a few hiccups along the way. And, although my choices could only be considered as a snapshot, covering in the main only Pale/Golden Ales and just a small percentage of those on offer, let alone the myriad of other styles available; Traditional Bitter's and Mild's, through Brown Ales to Porter's and Stout's, it would have to be said the Cumbrian brewing scene appears healthy and above all full of innovation, certainly worthy of greater research!
In the end, my 'Awayday' therefore proved a great day out, very much meeting, even exceeding expectations, despite a few hiccups along the way. And, although my choices could only be considered as a snapshot, covering in the main only Pale/Golden Ales and just a small percentage of those on offer, let alone the myriad of other styles available; Traditional Bitter's and Mild's, through Brown Ales to Porter's and Stout's, it would have to be said the Cumbrian brewing scene appears healthy and above all full of innovation, certainly worthy of greater research!
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