Got a Lot of Bottle!

A quick follow-on from my previous post; 'A Night Out in Gosforth', where any trip would not be complete without a call into the fabulous Coopers on nearby Brunton Park - an 8 till 8 Convenience Store with a difference, in that it has probably one of the best  selections of Bottled Real Ales anywhere in the North East. A brief glance at my six bottle, sixteen pound selection, gives a glimpse into the diverse range on offer, and highlights that you don’t have to pay a premium for this first class service. Go on give them a call . . . you won’t be disappointed!

Stewart Brewing Hollyrood 5% - World Beer Awards Best Blonde/Golden Ale 2010

Stringers Beer IPA 5.5% - from Ulverston, Cumbria’s 100% Renewably Powered Brewery

Cropton Brewery Old Goat 8.0% - a deceptively easy drinking Strong Bitter

Durham Brewery Benidictus 8.4% - a potent, traditional English Barley Wine

Watermill Inn W’ruff Night 5.0% - Golden, Hoppy Ale from Ings in the Lake District

Oops . . . for the life of me I can’t place the last brew; Double-Hopped and weighing in at around 9%, with a Green Label - and no, I didn’t drink them in one session, honest. Either way, I’m sure I’ll spot it again on my next visit and, hopefully you won’t beat me to it!

A Night Out in Gosforth!

As a youth, I always promised myself a night out in Gosforth, its compact layout and up-market image, well at least to a lad from Newcastle’s West End, made it an attractive proposition for a pint or two, and the possibility of meeting a few young ladies. Sadly, I never did quite get around to it and as events would transpire, it would be another 30 years before I’d realise my dream - having a few pints that is, my ladies days being long over! The occasion; The Gosforth Winter Beer Festival 2011, held at the Civic Hall by the Regent Centre, and as I write running for a further two nights, Friday and Saturday, 11/12 November from 12:00 to 24:00.

Much to my surprise, the journey from my neck of the woods right into the heart of Gosforth’s High Street proved to be a single bus ride, I’d obviously not properly researched the route in the past. Within 25 minutes from leaving my own front door I was entering The Gosforth Hotel, a traditional tile fronted pub - basic, but with a good reputation for their Cask Ale offerings, and the perfect start to my evening. A swift pint of Wylam Centennial 4.1%, one of a range of locally produced American style Pale Ales with a charge of 'Yankee Hops', its citrus palate balanced with a bitter sweet finish, albeit in my example ever so slightly musty. Still, that wasn’t going to spoil my night, and although the remaining offerings all from 'LocAle' micros; Double Maxim, Consett, Tyne Bank, Mordue and Hadrian & Border proved rather tempting, I bid farewell with Loyalty Card in hand and the prospect of a free pint, ensuring a return visit would be sooner, rather than later.

Following the route of the original Great North Road I headed on to the venue, and although busy with rush hour traffic, a mild and dry evening ensured a relaxed arrival, with the warm reflection of the street lights adding to my feeling of well being, and as events would prove, I certainly wasn’t to be disappointed. Formalities over; admission, half-pint glass and beer tickets etc., oh, and not forgetting a punt on the Charity Tombola, I settled into a corner of one of the carefully laid out tables to scrutinise the Beer List and make my selections for the evening. These smaller, to medium events, in well lit airy venues, with a good, long open bar make for an easy-going experience. The old adage that when it feels right etc., being very much true.

With over 40 beers to choose from, and not having had a change to check things out in advance, I thought that a start nearer to home would be a good option. Hence, my first choice was Hadrian & Border’s Newburn No.1 4.1%, this from a brewer much travelled around Tyneside, and I assume this Dark Golden Ale with hoppy finish, was in announcement of their latest move. It proved an excellent start and led me on to their near neighbour, The Big Lamp Brewery and a new beer to me, One Hop (Wonder) 4.0%. A beautiful Dark Amber brew with smooth palate and a hint of nuttiness on the finish - lets hope if I can make it to The Keelman at the weekend, which for those not in the know is their brewery 'tap', they’ve a pint with my name on. By now getting into my stride, I travelled metaphorically down stream and crossed banks to sample Jarrow’s Isis 5.0%, a strong Pale Golden Bitter with a tropical fruity finish. Really first class and a reminder that I must visit their newly opened Sunderland Pub of the same name . . . sooner, rather than later. And, to round out my first quartet, an established Geordie favourite; Mourdue’s Radgie Gadgie 4.8%, a Strong Bitter with lots of fruit and hops, and as I’ve previously found, as good in bottled form as it is on draught, which is not always an easy feat. So, four different local brewers offering a variation on the Pale Ale theme, all it would seem in rude health and demonstrating both, staying power, adaptation, innovation and above all consistency. As I said earlier, certainly nothing to disappoint and as it proved much to admire!    

As with all things in life it’s so easy to find ones self in a rut, and when it comes to beer I’m no different - it’s not very often I’ll venture onto the dark side, much preferring, albeit with infinite choice, my beloved Pale Ales. However, this was billed as a 'Winter Beer Festival' and darker beers are synonymous with the warmth and comfort they afford, so time for a change? I therefore plumped for Three Castles Firecracker 4.2%, the name alone certainly had a glow to it, and as tasting notes were not available I wasn’t sure what to expect, but what a choice . . . as dark as they come, offering a rich malty palate and good balanced bitter finish, with just a lingering hint of aniseed. Certainly no going back now; so it had to be Hexhamshire’s Blackhall English Stout 4.0%, another dark bitter beer with strong roasted malt flavours - perfect winter drinking. And it only got better, next up a Bohemian style Dark Lager, Allendale Winter Dunkel 4.6%, a rich dark Golden Brown brew with bags of flavour and a bitter-sweet finish. Now, I know my limits and as much a I was warming to my new found friends, I cast my eye around looking to one for the road, and Black Hole Hubble Bubble 5.5% didn’t present any toil or trouble, just a mouthful of rich flavours and a reflective end to a must enjoyable evening. In reality I hadn’t travelled very far, my beer choice in the main reflecting local allegiances, however the transition form the golden days of summer and into the darker winter nights was one I’ll savour for a while to come!

Embers Burning Brightly!

As I’ve touched on previously, getting a decent pint within walking distance has sadly been lacking of late. Alright, a trip down the hill and onto the edge of town will bring you to The Bodega, and you won’t find a more reliable Cask Ale haunt, but we’re talking a good 20-25 minutes with a fair wind behind, add to which on a 'Match Day' it can become quite a scrum - if that’s not a mixed metaphor!

Good News then that the Fox & Hounds has just undergone a refit . . . they’ve bound to have included a hand-pull or two. No, sadly not, just same old, same old. You’d think that a 'progressive' business, trading on an historic Tyneside name like 'John Barras' - their original Tyne Brewery forming the backbone at launch of Newcastle Breweries in the 1890's, would want to tap into one of the few growing sectors of the Pub Trade. Seemingly not; obviously the West End is a lost cause as far as Real Ale goes?

Enter The Denton; not the Duke of York, even though we’ve now marched all the way up the hill and down (the other side) again. Under their parent 'Ember Inns' banner they’re at least trying to offer a good selection of ales, and not just a token hand-pull - their 'Cask Marque' accreditation should also mean that the offering is presented in good order. Since early September, we’ve had everything from Moor Beer Company’s Revival 3.8%, through Lancaster Brewery’s Blonde 4.1% to Rooster’s Wild Mule 3.9%, and not forgetting RCH’s PG Steam 3.9% - a gold medal winner from the 2010 Great British Beer Festival. Yet, despite this, and bearing in mind that their regular Caledonian Deuchars IPA 3.8% is the cheapest pint on offer by a long way, getting a good one is very hit and miss!

As with all Cask Ales, regardless of how you keep your cellar, through-put is paramount, and it would seem that here in the West End, despite the Denton’s best efforts, the eponymous national keg alternatives are king. But, having thoroughly enjoyed my pint of Itchen Valley Godfathers 3.8% and a cracking Wadworth’s Swordfish 5.0% in the past, the prospect of a 'NovEmber' special Project Green 4.5% - a Compton brewed Pale Ale with Green Hops, drew me back one more time. However, the sight of Orkney’s Dark Island 4.6% still sitting there some 10 days since my last visit didn’t bode well . . . and the Project Green, sadly even the girl behind the bar agreed it was stale, flat and beyond it’s best. Not even the usually reliable Deuchars could lift my spirits - leaving at least half of the pint still in the glass, I headed home in despair.

Will I be back . . . of course? My couple of pints a few times a week won’t accumulate any one a fortune, and as much as I appreciate the option of a local drink, I can’t ensure the necessary volumes to achieve a reliable glass each and every time. But look, we’ve a Robinson’s produced Golden Ale up next; Build a Rocket Boys! 4.0% (created in collaboration of the acclaimed band 'Elbow' and named after their latest album). Lets not give in just yet; I for one will be doing my bit. Support your 'local' - we’ve lost so much over the years here in the West End. Together, we can make sure the 'Ember’s' can continue to burn brightly - its our only beacon!

A Cumbrian Odyessy (Part 2) - Kendal . . . Just Mint?

Just over a week-ago, having thoroughly enjoyed an exciting range of Cumbrian brewed beers in Carlisle, I mused that the market would be “certainly worthy of greater research”, however little did I know that I would again be venturing into Lakeland, well at least not so soon, but the prospect of the “CAMRA Westmorland Beer Festival” in Kendal (Town Hall, Highgate, 12-15 October 2011), was an opportunity not to be missed.

Copyright © 2011 Marston's PLC 

By way of research, having downloaded the proposed Beer List from Phil Hodgson’s excellent “Newcastle Real Ale Listings” site - www.newcastle-real-ale.co.uk, I settled in for a quite evening of contemplation, trying to find as much background on the Brewery’s and beers to be showcased, helped along by a few bottles of Jennings Cumberland Ale 4.7%; not quite as good as their cask equivalent, or exciting as many of the prospects on offer, but at 3 x 500ml for £4.00 (Asda), I wasn’t going to get much better, well at least not this side of the Pennines. (Jennings, although established in Cockermouth since 1874, are now part of the Marston's Group and can no longer be classed as an Independent Brewery. However, their parent company's commitment to the plant was demonstrated in the wake of the 2009 Cumbrian Floods, when after being badly damaged and out of operation for three months, they effected rapid repairs at the cost of several million pounds).

The day dawned damp and overcast; a typical autumn Tyneside morning, and nothing like the clear, crisp October day looking out over Cummock Water, as depicted on the labels of last night’s beers, but I was sure thing’s would improve. A breakfast of Tea and a Bacon Stottie (Bun, Bap, Cob or whatever you call your local bread speciality) in the Central Station . . . no beer at breakfast for me, but feeling suitably invigorated the first train of my journey beckoned - the “Carlisle Rattler”! Looking serene and innocent when I pictured the beast upon our arrival, but who ever thought you could put an old bus on rails and expect a smooth ride at 70 miles/per hour? Suitably shaken, I was stirred on to look for a pint to calm me down.

© Thwaites/Wetherspoon

They say familiarity breeds contempt, but from experience of last weeks excursion and the fact that I only had some 50 minutes before my next train, I plumped for the safe option and headed for “Wetherspoon’s”, only to find it had changed its name. Of course, it had always been the “William Rufus” - American Vice-President, and not the guy who got the top job commemorated some four doors down. My mistake and should you refer to my earlier posting, (Carlisle Awayday - Just the Ticket!), you’ll know were I’m coming from. Anyway, told you I was shaken, but my pint of Thwaites Daniel’s Hammer 5.0%, there being no Cumbrian beers on offer, certainly hit the mark, and as I strolled back to the Station reminded me of my visits in the 1970’s, when each north-bound trains carriage wheels would systematically ring to the strike of the “Wheeltapper” - a practice I’d never seem before or come across since.

The remainder of the journey proved uneventful; a short haul over Shap and onto Oxenholme, before changing for the Windermere train and the 5 minute run into Kendal - all in air-conditioned luxury and aboard a modern, smooth running high-speed Diesel, in marked contrast to my earlier experiences, and this a single-track five mile branch to a rural backwater, not a main cross-country route, but I digress. And so, on to the venue, a short walk up into town and like most blokes where beer is to be found, an easy find; although the 60ft banner and pointy-arrow may have helped. Free entry, a well laid-out and airy room with numerous tables and lots of seating, together with a great range of home-cooked food beckoned, and that’s not forgetting the beer, the 19th century provincial splendour of the upstairs Assembly Room only adding to the relaxed anticipation of the afternoon’s events.


An array of homemade pies and assorted pickles set before me, I headed to the bar to find my first beer; I had hoped it to be Beckstones Rev Bob 4.6%, but as I was to find out, many of my carefully researched choices were among the handful of beers which hadn’t arrived, had been substituted or weren’t quite ready - so much for my careful preparation. Not to be fazed, I plumped for a previous favourite; Cumbrian Legendary Ales Loweswater Gold 4.3% - a Gold Medal Winner at the 2011 “Great British Beer Festival”. Now, it may have been my disappointment at the disruption to my schedule, the delicious pickles dulling my palate, or even having to sup from a pot with a handle, (an alien tradition here in the North East!), but either way it didn’t quite work out and proved to set a precedent for the afternoon. Onwards and upwards?

Sadly, my next three selections I again found to be lacking - it can only have been me as we we're talking some of Cumbria’s finest and innovative brewers; Croglin (had hoped for their Gylden Ringer 3.8%) Trickster 4.2%, Kirby Lonsdale Monumental Blonde 4.5% and Ulverston Celebration Ale 3.9%, although all were second choices, I just wasn’t having any luck. However, although the glassware wasn’t to my preference, I found some consolation in the fact that  they were marked for both third and half pints, this together with all beers being individually priced, meant that I’d hardly splashed out a fortune and was just over a pint into the session. Time for drastic measures - and what a devil; Summer Wine Diablo 6.6%, its sharp hop kick and fruit laden mouthful guaranteed to lift the palate!

Copyright © 2008
Hexhamshire Brewery 

The brief trip into Yorkshire certainly helped, and with my next two selections I literately began to scale the heights that I knew Cumbrian brewers could aspire too; Hesket Newmarket Scafell Blonde 4.3% and Coniston Old Man Ale 4.2%, both rising above the perception of mediocrity I had earlier encountered. There was now only one option; Hexhamshire Old Humbug 5.5% - aptly named to describe my earlier mood, its dark, malty flavours and lingering palate allowing me to reflect on my day, and accept that you can’t have your cake (or pickles) and eat it! Kendal had been a great day out; the friendliness of the “CAMRA Westmorland Branch” members second to none and very much worthy of praise for their efforts, and that despite my own initial thoughts, confirmation that Cumbria has many bright stars in the brewing stratosphere.   

A Pie and a Pint - a British Classic!

A Pie and a Pint; or in this case three of them, that’s pies not pints, although I did enjoy three different beers to accompany them - where? . . . "Wetherspoon’s"!

Yes, as part of the "J. D. Wetherspoon" pub groups current "Real Ale & Cider Festival - Wednesday 5 to Sunday 23 October", they are offering Three Mini Pies; Steak & Abbot Ale, Chicken & Vegetable and a Shepherd’s with Lamb and Mashed Potato topping, the perfect accompaniment to a pint. But better still, you can choose your pint made up of three separate third-pint glasses, for me Everards Whakatu, the American Fat Head’s Yakima Sun and Rooster’s Last Stand, making my complete lunch just over £6.00; easy on the pocket but not lacking in flavour’s or choice.

Everards Whakatu 3.7%  Fat Head's Yakima Sun 5.0%  Rooster's Last Stand 4.3%

Catch them all, while you can - a true British Classic!

Carlisle Awayday - Just the Ticket!

It may just be a coincidence, but it would seem that many a Cask Ale drinker of a certain age spent their youthful leisure hours at the end of a railway platform, the pursuit of Train-spotting I guess being similar to Beer Ticking, insomuch that you're always wanting to complete the set. Back in the 1970's, although Newcastle' and its environs offered a diverse choice for the railway enthusiast, you knew that there was a completely different world some sixty miles away at the foot of Hadrian's Wall; Carlisle was always a rewarding 'Awayday' destination. Fast forward to 2011, and the prospect of Solway CAMRA's Carlisle Beer Festival was met with similar anticipation.

The 'Centurion' in Newcastle's Central Station not only boasts an ever-changing selection of Cask Ales, but has arguably one of the finest interiors of any Pub in the country. Having started life as the Station's First Class Lounge, its grand 1890's tiled interior can now be enjoyed by all and makes the perfect starting point for any journey by train - if of course an excuse to pay a call were needed. So, with a copy of the Tyne Valley Line timetable and 'Whistle Stops' leaflet to hand, (Real Ale Pubs along The Hadrian's Wall Country Line), I settled down to enjoy an aptly named pint of Hadrian & Border’s Centurion, soak up the atmosphere of my magnificent surroundings and look forward to what new finds may lie ahead.

My intention had been to stop off along route, maybe enjoy the odd pint or two and indulge in a spot of lunch, however ticketing requirements, timetable restrictions and out of season pub opening times all conspired to ensure that I had to head straight on to Carlisle - I'm sure things were much simpler back in the old days, although my retro-mode of transport, in the form of a near 30 year old bus-derived train made me appreciate that the past was maybe not as perfect as I'd imagined. Suitably shaken and in need of a restorative pint, I headed out from Carlisle's Citadel and onto Lowther Street, noting the Beer Festival's venue for later reference, the imposing 'Hallmark Hotel', who's footpath signage also held echoes of the past - the London Midland & Scottish Railway having ceased to exist some 60 years earlier! 

A brief stroll brought me to the 'Howard Arms', a recommendation from CAMRA's 2012 'Good Beer Guide' - a Historic Gem of a Pub, its original tiled exterior shinning like a beacon for the weary traveller. Once through the door, the interior is less grand but clean and inviting all the same, although the beer choice is somewhat limited; Theakston Best Bitter and Caledonian Deuchars IPA. However, a pint of the later and a hearty plate of Ham, Egg and Chips and I felt ready to take on all comers. So, through 'The Lanes' and onto the 'King's Arms' - Solway CAMRA's City Pub of the Year for the last 3 years. A little worn at the edges for my liking and, although the beer selection had much to recommend an extended stay; Cumbrian favourites Yates and Keswick Breweries, for me it takes more than a pint to make a pub.

A brief stop for Coffee gave me time to reflect; surely Carlisle couldn't have run out of steam, I must just be on the wrong track and I'd be sure to see the green light soon, but little did I know that first I was about to hit the buffers. 'Whistle Stops' suggested the 'Griffin' on Court Square, so I headed back in the direction of the Station. A former bank building, the interior of which is now a typical city-centre whistles and bells offering, it taking me a while to realise that the chromed bar fittings were in fact hand pulls - mistake; the half of Dent’s Black Sheep on offer was, I can say with all honesty, the worst presented Cask Ale I've had in many a long year. If it takes more than a pint to make a pub, you haven't a hope in hells chance if you can't even get the beer right. Not exactly a showcase for one of Cumbria's finest brews.

'Kings Arms' - Carlisle City Centre Pub of the Year?

With still 40 minutes to kill before the doors opened at 'The Hallmark', a sharp right onto Botchergate brought me to 'Wetherspoon's - Lloyds No.1 Bar' the 'Woodrow Wilson' - apparently the former American President was born in Carlisle. Now, as with most 'Spoon's' outlets the venue may be a bit brash and lacking in local character, however they know the Real Ale market and you won't find a more reliable pint, or this being their own 'Festival Fortnight', (The World's Biggest Real Ale & Cider Festival - Wednesday 5th - Sunday 23rd October), such a diverse range - I certainly wasn't disappointed. My half of Brakspear's Triple was perfection, and normally only being available in bottles this slightly reduced ABV offering - 7.2% to 5.7% made a refreshing change and really restored my spirits.

With a spring in my step I headed on to the 'Hallmark', its Ballroom bright and airy, with plenty of tables and proper seating; things were definitely looking up - I'd come to Cumbria, primarily to try Local Ales and from the Beer List I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. Having used my £2.00 discounted Entry Voucher, (the trip to the 'King's' hadn't been totally in vain), exchanged £10.00 for 8 Beer Half-pint Tokens, and paid a further £2.00 deposit for a suitable glass, I settled in for a most enjoyable evening. My selection being as follows:-

Cumberland Breweries, Corby Blond 4.2%

Crystal clear, pale straw blonde ale with pronounced hop character, for me a touch on the light-side, but no doubt a great session pint, its well balanced palate and lingering finish make it very more-ish.

Cumbrian Legendary, Loweswater Gold 4.2%

Rich citrus nose, tropical fruits on the palate - pure nectar, a worthy winner of 'Champion Golden Ale of Britain 2011' and as it would turn out, probably my Festival favourite.

Greenodd Brewery, Roundabout 4.5%

Another golden brew, this with Lager Malts and New Zealand hops, offering an almost vinous nose, with Sauvignon Blanc grape gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, a real mouthful to savour.

Steel City Brewing, Sheffield Hop Infusion Team 5.7%

A trip into Yorkshire; this is hops and then some, but not too in your face. A refreshing yet heady brew, a fine pale ale packed with flavour - half way through my selection and marvelling at the sheer craftsmanship on offer.

Yates Brewery, Green Hop Bitter 4.2%

A true Cumbrian product, brewed using Green Hop Cones grown at the brewery, it's distinct, fresh flavour and rounded palate offering a long, satisfying almost semi-sweet finish.

Hardknott, Cool Fusion 4.4%

Pale straw, with a grassy nose and just a hint of spice, refreshing, thirst quenching, it's finish tempered with sweet ginger - a hit I'd imagine when paired with delicate oriental foods.

Coniston Brewing Co., Infinity IPA 6.0%

A golden, amber pale ale with fresh zesty nose and orange, lemon palate and a nicely bittered finish, which balances the sweetness of its malts - a fine, modern expression of the IPA style.

Tyne Bank Brewery, Alt Bier 4.6%

One for the road; a typical Newcastle' style Brown Ale, caramel, malt and chocolate flavours, balanced hop bitterness with spice and fruit, and a slight floral nose - lagered for two months giving a smooth, rounded finish.


In the end, my 'Awayday' therefore proved a great day out, very much meeting, even exceeding expectations, despite a few hiccups along the way. And, although my choices could only be considered as a snapshot, covering in the main only Pale/Golden Ales and just a small percentage of those on offer, let alone the myriad of other styles available; Traditional Bitter's and Mild's, through Brown Ales to Porter's and Stout's, it would have to be said the Cumbrian brewing scene appears healthy and above all full of innovation, certainly worthy of greater research!

Postscript: A picture I intended to take in the mid-1970's, but never got around to it. Back then, to think that the painted signage for the 'Maryport and Carlisle Railway Goods and Coal Depot' was still legible after at least 50 years was quite remarkable, (the company being part of the 1923 amalgamation to form the LMS; London Midland & Scottish Railway). However, nearly another 40 years later it still greets arrivals into Carlisle from the East, demonstrating quite amazing staying power; a thought I held in mind as I popped into the 'Centurion' for one last pint upon my arrival back into Newcastle'!

Going around in Circles!

One of the most widely available Cask Ales on Tyneside is the Caledonian Brewery’s Deuchars IPA. Brewed in Edinburgh at the former Lorimer & Clarke site, a traditional Victorian brewery with direct-fired copper, it is in fact one of the many brands of the global Heineken Group, formed in part by the acquisition of the old Scottish & Newcastle concern. Itself, with obvious links to Newcastle’, but as we shall also see synonymous with the name Deuchar - pronounced as in: “You’re due a Deuchars”.

Image & Trademark: © 2011 Caledonian Brewing Co. Ltd 

Robert Deuchar, who was born of humble stock in Forfarshire, Scotland arrived on Tyneside in the 1860’s, where in his early thirties we find him as a Farmer at Boldon, having already acquired some 130 acres and employing 2 labours. However, within 10 years he’d moved to Newcastle’ and into the Licensed Trade, in 1871 being resident at the old 'Chester Hotel' in Shieldfield, having previously started as an Innkeeper in Newgate Street at the 'Chancellor's Head'. 

Over the next 30 years he built-up a vast estate, converted the old brewery at Sandyford, Jesmond into extensive storage, and established the famous Duddingston Ales, back in his native Scotland - although always a Tyneside favourite.

A walk around Jesmond today still offers hints of that legacy; the Sandyford Brewery buildings, Deuchar Street were the old Cradlewell pub sits empty, and Robert’s final resting place, Jesmond Old Cemetery. For, when he died in 1904 his effects were valued at over £300,000.00 - millions by today’s standards and quite an achievement for a once humble Farm Servant; in a reverse of the old adage, drink had certainly not become the better of him.

Yet his death was not the end of this Tyneside connection, for under his son Farquhar the name of Robert Deuchar lived on for a further 50 years, the Pub Estate continuing to expand, and with it our taste for Scottish brewed ales - its purchase by Newcastle Breweries in the early 1950’s being the foundation of the combined Scottish & Newcastle group. And so to today, a pint of Deuchars IPA - brewed in Scotland, appreciated on Tyneside, the legacy of a Scotsman who lived in our midst, and proof that in life we’re forever ’Going around in Circles’!

Photo 'The Chester' 1966: © Newcastle Libraries'

A Trip to The Coast

Dominated by its ancient Priory, Tynemouth can obviously trace its origins to earlier times, however with the coming of the railways, and in particular their electrification by the North Eastern Railway in the early 1900’s, its growth as a dormitory town mushroomed, and it’s that blend of the ancient and elegant that greets today’s visitor.

Tyneside’s Metro, the latest incarnation of the ‘Coast Electric’ trains, although now some 30 years old, looks set to remain with signs of constant renewal works evident throughout the system - the point that the plug was pulled on the old L.N.E.R. infrastructure, only to be resurrected less than 12 years later . . . but that’s another story.

So arriving in Tynemouth on a trip to the Coast, as generations of Tynesider’s have done in the past and, no doubt will continue to do so for years to come, one is greeted by the splendour of the 1880’s station, (currently undergoing a further and complete restoration), its structure far greater than the needs of today’s travellers, but providing a regal portal to the delights of the town.

On a chilly, windswept Monday lunchtime, I of course hadn’t come to sample the sea air, although as events would unfold, the opportunity to blow-away a few cobwebs with a stroll on the Long Sands did ensue. No, today’s mission was to enjoy a few pints, a spot of lunch and take stock of Front Street’s historic watering holes.

My first port of call The Salutation, which despite extensive interior alterations, remains largely unaltered externally, in fact exactly as I remember it from the mid-1980’s and looking at earlier photographs doesn’t appear to have changed much in the last 100 years - a good start and the sign proclaiming a range of Local Cask Ales on offer was enough to temp me through the doors.

Cask Ale Week - 3rd to 9th October 2011

Cask Ales, one of the few growth areas in the Licensed Trade, have of course been embraced by many of the new pub chains; some do it better than others, but as a rule those with Cask Marque accreditation are generally better than others . .  . sadly the ’Sally’ didn’t quite hit the mark. Alright, my pint of Brakspear Oxford Gold wasn’t bad but it’s hardly local, and despite their promotion of Cask Ale Week, emblazoned on the walls and the chest of my host, it takes a little bit more than a reasonable £1.70 for you want to stay on and sample the hospitality.

The Turks Head, with its 1930’s tiled exterior is undoubtedly a traditional pub, and can trace its origins much further back to the late 1700’s, but it’s probably the legend of Wandering Willie, a Border Collie who having lost its master in driving sheep down from the Cheviots to North Shields, remained in the locality in the hope they’d be reunited, sadly that day never came and he remains in death a poignant feature of the pub, set in a glass fronted recess in the bar wall, where he’s cast his eye over generations of drinkers since his demise in 1880.

From street level one enters the wooden floored lower bar, which offers a time worn but obviously well cared for appearance, not a modern pastiche but an organic, evolved interior with hints to its past - cast iron mahogany topped tables, an eclectic mix of seating, colourful lead-glazed doors and windows etc., . . . and the beer didn’t disappoint either. Jarrow Brewery’s Rivet Catcher, one of my favourite LocAles, was as good as it comes, and testament to the adage that the secret to a good pint is more than the sum of its parts; Cask Ale is not a marriage of convenience!

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012

Suitably refreshed, it was time to move on and find that spot of lunch I’d promised myself, and possibly squeeze in another pint . . . so retracing my steps I arrived at the Cumberland Arms, another gem of a pub with a traditional feel, and despite its 1890’s exterior being shadowed by a modern Carlsberg delivery lorry, I knew from old that there’d be a much better offering inside.

Settling into the Lower Deck of this nautical themed bar, I was immediately welcomed by the ever friendly staff, a pint of Springhead Maid Marian to hand and the prospect of an All Day Breakfast on the horizon. And what a feast; two of everything and a stack of chips to boot, served promptly and at £4.95 a real bargain . . . a further reminder of what’s good about the English Pub and why the best continue to flourish. However, good hospitality can lead to temptation, and having freely sampled the remaining ales on offer, one too many pints ensued, hence the aforementioned stroll on the beach, but a fitting end to a trip to the Coast.

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012


Image © Cumberland Arms, Tynemouth, see website:
www.cumberlandarms.co.uk

Time Gentlemen Please!

Born and bred in Newcastle’s West End were pub culture, or at least some form of drinking, was and is very much a part of daily life, however today you’d be hard pressed to find a ‘local’ pub, the opportunities for popping up the road for a quick pint, having all but disappeared. Even thirty years ago in my youth the choices were limited, not necessarily due to availability but, certain establishments were considered a brave man’s choice, and certainly not somewhere you’d call in uninvited. Back then the ‘Prince of Wales’ and ‘Fox & Hounds’, situated at either extreme of the West Road, would have been considered the only ‘safe’ ports of call - one now trading as an Indian Restaurant and the other, although still operating as a pub, has for my tastes only a token ‘Real Ale’ offering. Now, I can’t say if the pubs of old would have fared any better, but armed with an old OS Map and a copy of Slater’s 1890 Directory, here for posterity is an overview of the establishments within ’staggering distance’ of my own front door, although back then you’d have been returning to a field!


Belgrave Hotel, 1 Belgrave Terrace & 127 Mill Lane

http://www.flickr.com/photos/newcastlelibraries/4080807782/

Swept away in the 1970s’s, at the time of the redevelopment of the nearby Jubilee Estate, the upper terraces of Mill Lane are now flanked by a row of Industrial Units. However, the legacy of its original owner Alexander Laing, a successful Newcastle’ Beer, Wine & Spirit Merchant, lives on in his bequest to the City, ‘The Laing Art Gallery‘ - his 'High-Hopped' India Pale Ale, which in 1854 he offered at 2/6d per dozen pints, certainly sounds a delicious bargain! 

Bentinck Arms, 3 Mill Lane, Elswick

At the time of our enquiry the owner would appear to be one Emanuel Young, with an Annie Child and Kate Lavan shown in the 1891 Census as Worker in Bar and Barmaid respectively. The Pub however didn’t survive long into the 20th century, being replaced by a new building ‘The Portland Arms’ when the Bentinck Estate was built in the 1920’s. Although this remains intact, it ceased to operate as a pub within the last 5 years and now trades as a Turkish Restaurant. 

Benwell Hotel, 1 Cochran Street & Adelaide Terrace

The present building would appear to date to 1901, and although the OS Map doesn’t show the Cochran Street premises as a Public House, the Directory confirms otherwise with a Mrs A. (Ann) Gray at the helm, who in the Census is described as a widowed ’Hotel Proprietor’, living with amongst others her 17 year old son, and both 15 and 13 year old daughters, all of whom are shown as Barman/Barmaids!


Back to the future; the building although empty is currently advertised as To Let for Retail Units, so hopefully it may rise again.  

Chesterfield Arms, Elswick Road

Once the home to the famous ‘Elswick Harriers‘, this is the only pub of our selection which still remains and operates as licensed premises. However, should you choose to pay a visit, being as fleet of foot as those early running club members may be an advantage. Originally a W. B. Reid house, owners of the ‘Leazes Brewery’, its manager in 1891 a John Shipley describes himself as running a ‘Spirit Bar’, so one assumes it’s always been the home to the hard stuff!

Crown Hotel, 4 Ravensworth View, Elswick Road

Sadly, once again nothing remains of this iconic ‘Newcastle Breweries’ pub, I remember its corporate black, cream and red-lined frontage from my youth. Demolished and the site left abandoned since the 1970’s, the only drinking (or worse) now taking place in its vicinity is by underage kids or ‘Lambrinolics’ behind the fenced-off plot - William Martin its original manager must be turning in his grave.




Photo: © Geoff Phillips, 'Old Pubs of Newcastle' 1995   

Mill Inn, 403 Westgate Road (actually 413 Westgate Road)

So we come to are last port of call, and having touched on the ‘Mill Inn’ in an earlier post, (see ‘The Mill Inn . . . and what might have been’), I won’t go round in circles and repeat myself. But, I’m sure if its 1890’s manager James Storey, who as a widow brought up his four children on the premises, would have been shocked by its later repute and subsequent demise. Although, given the means I'm sure we could set the wind in its sails again. 


That’s 5 pubs in less than a ½m, excluding those on Scotswood Road - the walk up the bank would probably do you in anyway, and with much of the land west of Grainger Park Road still being undeveloped at this time, the additional choices which would come (and eventually go), with the building of new housing through to the 1940’s, of course don’t get a mention.

So a little bit of nostalgia; if you would you like to share your memories, have any family anecdotes or even photographs, Rod Coran would love to hear from you - you could start by dropping us a line in the comments section? And, having unearthed in my Grandfather’s papers, extracts of what looks like an early post-war directory for Scotswood Road, with all the Public Houses diligently marked, I feel an overview of the ’Great Pub Crawl’ could also be on the cards. We haven’t quite shouted; ’Time Gentlemen Please’!

‘Summer Lightning’

When applying a brand to any product, unless it’s promoted to a wider audience, consumer choice is inevitably based on the actual item, in this case a Golden Ale at 5% ABV, and the image it conveys or feelings it evokes, therefore ‘Hop Back Breweries’ Summer Lightning had to be the perfect choice, given our recent abysmal summer weather!

The 'Brewery based on the outskirts of Salisbury, has from humble beginnings in the backyard of a pub, grown into one the bigger players in the ’Real Ale’ market, with it’s own tied Pub Estate, leading to a recent floatation on the Stock Market. Summer Lightning remains its flagship ale, in both Cask Conditioned and bottled formats - its chance encounter in my local ‘Morrison’s’ (£1.75/500ml - or 4 for £5.50), for the aforementioned reasons made it a ’no brainer’ as to tonight’s choice.

Pouring a rich golden hue and taking care not to disturb its heavy sediment, a light frothy head topped off the glass, with noticeable sparkle keeping it more or less in place for the duration, with a hoppy freshness on the nose. The palate however proved a tad thin, despite its heady ABV, yet its balanced malt/fruit flavours held to a lingering bitter finish. Not for me one of the finest bottled beers I’ve encountered, but drinkable all the same. Sadly, like its multiple awards emblazoned on the bottle back-label, they like memories of summers past are seemingly long gone!

Free Beer @ The Bodega!

Now, as I’ve said previously, I’m partial to the odd afternoon pint when time and commitments allow. My watering-hole of choice, should a brief interlude present itself, would usually be Newcastle’s ’The Bodega’, a Sir John Fitzgerald house at the foot of historic Westgate Hill - just after the Motorcycle Shops and before the start of the City Centre proper.

Usually quite, without the draw of a Bar Menu, the ‘Real Ales’ on offer however make up for any deficiency, there being an ever-changing range of some nine hand-pulls, a house regular ‘Big Lamp’s’ Prince Bishop, 4.8% ABV/£2.65 being my usual choice. However, and I’m not suggesting you try this in one go, but for each pint bought between 12 and 5pm, they’ll give you a stamped card, and when you get to number six, a free pint is on offer. Simple!

So today, after some 3-4 visits spaced over the last four weeks or so, I collected my sixth stamp and approached the bar expecting the choice to be from the ’Chemical Bros.’ collection but, was pleasanty supprised that I had the full ’Real Ale’ range at my dispossal. Not being a greedy so and so I’d have happily stayed with the Prince Bishop, however having partaken of their delicious ’Jalepeno Crisps’, something with a little more bite was called for - Nottingham’s ’Castle Rock’ Crayfish IPA, 6% ABV/usually £3.00, certainly fitted the bill.

Brewed on a changing monthly basis, ‘Castle Rock’ offers a different ale in conjuction with the ‘Wildlife Trust‘, each highlighting an endangered British Species, August being the indigenous Crayfish and the threat from a virus carried by the American Signal, originally introduced to the UK as a farmed alternative, but now appearing in increasing numbers in the wild. The beer however presents no such problems; pouring a rich golden hue with soon disappearing creamy head, a light vinous nose leading to a soft lemon zest palate, with rounded bitter finish. Not a true IPA in my book but a great beer nethertheless - and free!

Grasping the Nettle . . . and a Postscript on Durham!

My part of Newcastle’ may have changed beyond recognition, even within my half-century, but how my Tyneside ancestors would have viewed the evolution of their City is beyond comprehension. However, take a short drive into the Northumberland countryside and the vista is undoubtedly one they’d still recognise, with many of the traditional ways of life still intact, albeit with some adaptation to the demands of modern living. So near but so far . . . one day!

High House Farm near Matfen is only twenty-five minute’s by car from Newcastle’s City Centre; set amongst rolling fields, streams and woodland, this 200 acre working farm also boasts a fine restaurant and on-site Brew House - what better location for a late lunch and chance to recharge your batteries? And, in no time here we are - an excellent Platter and Pint awaits me (or half, I am driving of course), Nel’s Best living up to her ‘Best Bitter in the North’ Gold Award. The meal, three courses in one is taken at a leisurely pace, the beer not so but if restraint is the only downside, I can live with that, although plans are to hand to rectify matters later.

Of course no visit would be complete without a browse around the ‘Brewery; the viewing platform in the malt loft and its exhibition giving a good overview of the brewing process and, the opportunity to ’nose’ the various malts and hops used on site. All too quickly however we’re on our way - remember restraint being today‘s byword, but not before the purchase of a curiosity. ‘High House Farm Brewery’ Nettle Beer is a light amber coloured ale based on a 14th century recipe, made with nettles grown on the farm and said to be a cure for the common cold and gout. Try as I might to induce a bout of gout I can’t confirm that statement, however the beer is extremely palatable; soft, rounded with a hint of hop bitter and sweet caramel. A great albeit potent (4.5% ABV), summer thirst-quencher, assuming we get some sun to punctuate these insessent showers of late!

It’s said that you can’t get too much of a good thing, so having indulged in my fair share of the ‘Durham Breweries’ excellent products of late, the thought of sampling just a few more was to the forefront of my mind, Hexham’s ’Waitrose’ store being my destination and not an unpleasant drive. A deserted Military Road up to Stagshaw, and then over the tops and down through Anwick, and no I didn’t call into the ’Rat’, as tempting as it might seem. And tonight’s selection: St Cuthbert, 6.5% ABV - Special India Pale Ale (x2), and the icing on the cake; Temptation, 10% ABV - Imperial Russian Stout. Surfice to say I slept well, thoughts of a strong, aromatic India Pale Ale, with citrus hop palate and clean finish, tempered by the luscious malt and caramel of a perfectly formed yet complex Imperial Russian Stout to the fore.

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Update: ‘High Elswick Brewery’ - all seems well . . . bloop, bloop. Need I say more!