A Trip to The Coast

Dominated by its ancient Priory, Tynemouth can obviously trace its origins to earlier times, however with the coming of the railways, and in particular their electrification by the North Eastern Railway in the early 1900’s, its growth as a dormitory town mushroomed, and it’s that blend of the ancient and elegant that greets today’s visitor.

Tyneside’s Metro, the latest incarnation of the ‘Coast Electric’ trains, although now some 30 years old, looks set to remain with signs of constant renewal works evident throughout the system - the point that the plug was pulled on the old L.N.E.R. infrastructure, only to be resurrected less than 12 years later . . . but that’s another story.

So arriving in Tynemouth on a trip to the Coast, as generations of Tynesider’s have done in the past and, no doubt will continue to do so for years to come, one is greeted by the splendour of the 1880’s station, (currently undergoing a further and complete restoration), its structure far greater than the needs of today’s travellers, but providing a regal portal to the delights of the town.

On a chilly, windswept Monday lunchtime, I of course hadn’t come to sample the sea air, although as events would unfold, the opportunity to blow-away a few cobwebs with a stroll on the Long Sands did ensue. No, today’s mission was to enjoy a few pints, a spot of lunch and take stock of Front Street’s historic watering holes.

My first port of call The Salutation, which despite extensive interior alterations, remains largely unaltered externally, in fact exactly as I remember it from the mid-1980’s and looking at earlier photographs doesn’t appear to have changed much in the last 100 years - a good start and the sign proclaiming a range of Local Cask Ales on offer was enough to temp me through the doors.

Cask Ale Week - 3rd to 9th October 2011

Cask Ales, one of the few growth areas in the Licensed Trade, have of course been embraced by many of the new pub chains; some do it better than others, but as a rule those with Cask Marque accreditation are generally better than others . .  . sadly the ’Sally’ didn’t quite hit the mark. Alright, my pint of Brakspear Oxford Gold wasn’t bad but it’s hardly local, and despite their promotion of Cask Ale Week, emblazoned on the walls and the chest of my host, it takes a little bit more than a reasonable £1.70 for you want to stay on and sample the hospitality.

The Turks Head, with its 1930’s tiled exterior is undoubtedly a traditional pub, and can trace its origins much further back to the late 1700’s, but it’s probably the legend of Wandering Willie, a Border Collie who having lost its master in driving sheep down from the Cheviots to North Shields, remained in the locality in the hope they’d be reunited, sadly that day never came and he remains in death a poignant feature of the pub, set in a glass fronted recess in the bar wall, where he’s cast his eye over generations of drinkers since his demise in 1880.

From street level one enters the wooden floored lower bar, which offers a time worn but obviously well cared for appearance, not a modern pastiche but an organic, evolved interior with hints to its past - cast iron mahogany topped tables, an eclectic mix of seating, colourful lead-glazed doors and windows etc., . . . and the beer didn’t disappoint either. Jarrow Brewery’s Rivet Catcher, one of my favourite LocAles, was as good as it comes, and testament to the adage that the secret to a good pint is more than the sum of its parts; Cask Ale is not a marriage of convenience!

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012

Suitably refreshed, it was time to move on and find that spot of lunch I’d promised myself, and possibly squeeze in another pint . . . so retracing my steps I arrived at the Cumberland Arms, another gem of a pub with a traditional feel, and despite its 1890’s exterior being shadowed by a modern Carlsberg delivery lorry, I knew from old that there’d be a much better offering inside.

Settling into the Lower Deck of this nautical themed bar, I was immediately welcomed by the ever friendly staff, a pint of Springhead Maid Marian to hand and the prospect of an All Day Breakfast on the horizon. And what a feast; two of everything and a stack of chips to boot, served promptly and at £4.95 a real bargain . . . a further reminder of what’s good about the English Pub and why the best continue to flourish. However, good hospitality can lead to temptation, and having freely sampled the remaining ales on offer, one too many pints ensued, hence the aforementioned stroll on the beach, but a fitting end to a trip to the Coast.

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012


Image © Cumberland Arms, Tynemouth, see website:
www.cumberlandarms.co.uk