Time Gentlemen Please!

Born and bred in Newcastle’s West End were pub culture, or at least some form of drinking, was and is very much a part of daily life, however today you’d be hard pressed to find a ‘local’ pub, the opportunities for popping up the road for a quick pint, having all but disappeared. Even thirty years ago in my youth the choices were limited, not necessarily due to availability but, certain establishments were considered a brave man’s choice, and certainly not somewhere you’d call in uninvited. Back then the ‘Prince of Wales’ and ‘Fox & Hounds’, situated at either extreme of the West Road, would have been considered the only ‘safe’ ports of call - one now trading as an Indian Restaurant and the other, although still operating as a pub, has for my tastes only a token ‘Real Ale’ offering. Now, I can’t say if the pubs of old would have fared any better, but armed with an old OS Map and a copy of Slater’s 1890 Directory, here for posterity is an overview of the establishments within ’staggering distance’ of my own front door, although back then you’d have been returning to a field!


Belgrave Hotel, 1 Belgrave Terrace & 127 Mill Lane

http://www.flickr.com/photos/newcastlelibraries/4080807782/

Swept away in the 1970s’s, at the time of the redevelopment of the nearby Jubilee Estate, the upper terraces of Mill Lane are now flanked by a row of Industrial Units. However, the legacy of its original owner Alexander Laing, a successful Newcastle’ Beer, Wine & Spirit Merchant, lives on in his bequest to the City, ‘The Laing Art Gallery‘ - his 'High-Hopped' India Pale Ale, which in 1854 he offered at 2/6d per dozen pints, certainly sounds a delicious bargain! 

Bentinck Arms, 3 Mill Lane, Elswick

At the time of our enquiry the owner would appear to be one Emanuel Young, with an Annie Child and Kate Lavan shown in the 1891 Census as Worker in Bar and Barmaid respectively. The Pub however didn’t survive long into the 20th century, being replaced by a new building ‘The Portland Arms’ when the Bentinck Estate was built in the 1920’s. Although this remains intact, it ceased to operate as a pub within the last 5 years and now trades as a Turkish Restaurant. 

Benwell Hotel, 1 Cochran Street & Adelaide Terrace

The present building would appear to date to 1901, and although the OS Map doesn’t show the Cochran Street premises as a Public House, the Directory confirms otherwise with a Mrs A. (Ann) Gray at the helm, who in the Census is described as a widowed ’Hotel Proprietor’, living with amongst others her 17 year old son, and both 15 and 13 year old daughters, all of whom are shown as Barman/Barmaids!


Back to the future; the building although empty is currently advertised as To Let for Retail Units, so hopefully it may rise again.  

Chesterfield Arms, Elswick Road

Once the home to the famous ‘Elswick Harriers‘, this is the only pub of our selection which still remains and operates as licensed premises. However, should you choose to pay a visit, being as fleet of foot as those early running club members may be an advantage. Originally a W. B. Reid house, owners of the ‘Leazes Brewery’, its manager in 1891 a John Shipley describes himself as running a ‘Spirit Bar’, so one assumes it’s always been the home to the hard stuff!

Crown Hotel, 4 Ravensworth View, Elswick Road

Sadly, once again nothing remains of this iconic ‘Newcastle Breweries’ pub, I remember its corporate black, cream and red-lined frontage from my youth. Demolished and the site left abandoned since the 1970’s, the only drinking (or worse) now taking place in its vicinity is by underage kids or ‘Lambrinolics’ behind the fenced-off plot - William Martin its original manager must be turning in his grave.




Photo: © Geoff Phillips, 'Old Pubs of Newcastle' 1995   

Mill Inn, 403 Westgate Road (actually 413 Westgate Road)

So we come to are last port of call, and having touched on the ‘Mill Inn’ in an earlier post, (see ‘The Mill Inn . . . and what might have been’), I won’t go round in circles and repeat myself. But, I’m sure if its 1890’s manager James Storey, who as a widow brought up his four children on the premises, would have been shocked by its later repute and subsequent demise. Although, given the means I'm sure we could set the wind in its sails again. 


That’s 5 pubs in less than a ½m, excluding those on Scotswood Road - the walk up the bank would probably do you in anyway, and with much of the land west of Grainger Park Road still being undeveloped at this time, the additional choices which would come (and eventually go), with the building of new housing through to the 1940’s, of course don’t get a mention.

So a little bit of nostalgia; if you would you like to share your memories, have any family anecdotes or even photographs, Rod Coran would love to hear from you - you could start by dropping us a line in the comments section? And, having unearthed in my Grandfather’s papers, extracts of what looks like an early post-war directory for Scotswood Road, with all the Public Houses diligently marked, I feel an overview of the ’Great Pub Crawl’ could also be on the cards. We haven’t quite shouted; ’Time Gentlemen Please’!

‘Summer Lightning’

When applying a brand to any product, unless it’s promoted to a wider audience, consumer choice is inevitably based on the actual item, in this case a Golden Ale at 5% ABV, and the image it conveys or feelings it evokes, therefore ‘Hop Back Breweries’ Summer Lightning had to be the perfect choice, given our recent abysmal summer weather!

The 'Brewery based on the outskirts of Salisbury, has from humble beginnings in the backyard of a pub, grown into one the bigger players in the ’Real Ale’ market, with it’s own tied Pub Estate, leading to a recent floatation on the Stock Market. Summer Lightning remains its flagship ale, in both Cask Conditioned and bottled formats - its chance encounter in my local ‘Morrison’s’ (£1.75/500ml - or 4 for £5.50), for the aforementioned reasons made it a ’no brainer’ as to tonight’s choice.

Pouring a rich golden hue and taking care not to disturb its heavy sediment, a light frothy head topped off the glass, with noticeable sparkle keeping it more or less in place for the duration, with a hoppy freshness on the nose. The palate however proved a tad thin, despite its heady ABV, yet its balanced malt/fruit flavours held to a lingering bitter finish. Not for me one of the finest bottled beers I’ve encountered, but drinkable all the same. Sadly, like its multiple awards emblazoned on the bottle back-label, they like memories of summers past are seemingly long gone!

Free Beer @ The Bodega!

Now, as I’ve said previously, I’m partial to the odd afternoon pint when time and commitments allow. My watering-hole of choice, should a brief interlude present itself, would usually be Newcastle’s ’The Bodega’, a Sir John Fitzgerald house at the foot of historic Westgate Hill - just after the Motorcycle Shops and before the start of the City Centre proper.

Usually quite, without the draw of a Bar Menu, the ‘Real Ales’ on offer however make up for any deficiency, there being an ever-changing range of some nine hand-pulls, a house regular ‘Big Lamp’s’ Prince Bishop, 4.8% ABV/£2.65 being my usual choice. However, and I’m not suggesting you try this in one go, but for each pint bought between 12 and 5pm, they’ll give you a stamped card, and when you get to number six, a free pint is on offer. Simple!

So today, after some 3-4 visits spaced over the last four weeks or so, I collected my sixth stamp and approached the bar expecting the choice to be from the ’Chemical Bros.’ collection but, was pleasanty supprised that I had the full ’Real Ale’ range at my dispossal. Not being a greedy so and so I’d have happily stayed with the Prince Bishop, however having partaken of their delicious ’Jalepeno Crisps’, something with a little more bite was called for - Nottingham’s ’Castle Rock’ Crayfish IPA, 6% ABV/usually £3.00, certainly fitted the bill.

Brewed on a changing monthly basis, ‘Castle Rock’ offers a different ale in conjuction with the ‘Wildlife Trust‘, each highlighting an endangered British Species, August being the indigenous Crayfish and the threat from a virus carried by the American Signal, originally introduced to the UK as a farmed alternative, but now appearing in increasing numbers in the wild. The beer however presents no such problems; pouring a rich golden hue with soon disappearing creamy head, a light vinous nose leading to a soft lemon zest palate, with rounded bitter finish. Not a true IPA in my book but a great beer nethertheless - and free!

Grasping the Nettle . . . and a Postscript on Durham!

My part of Newcastle’ may have changed beyond recognition, even within my half-century, but how my Tyneside ancestors would have viewed the evolution of their City is beyond comprehension. However, take a short drive into the Northumberland countryside and the vista is undoubtedly one they’d still recognise, with many of the traditional ways of life still intact, albeit with some adaptation to the demands of modern living. So near but so far . . . one day!

High House Farm near Matfen is only twenty-five minute’s by car from Newcastle’s City Centre; set amongst rolling fields, streams and woodland, this 200 acre working farm also boasts a fine restaurant and on-site Brew House - what better location for a late lunch and chance to recharge your batteries? And, in no time here we are - an excellent Platter and Pint awaits me (or half, I am driving of course), Nel’s Best living up to her ‘Best Bitter in the North’ Gold Award. The meal, three courses in one is taken at a leisurely pace, the beer not so but if restraint is the only downside, I can live with that, although plans are to hand to rectify matters later.

Of course no visit would be complete without a browse around the ‘Brewery; the viewing platform in the malt loft and its exhibition giving a good overview of the brewing process and, the opportunity to ’nose’ the various malts and hops used on site. All too quickly however we’re on our way - remember restraint being today‘s byword, but not before the purchase of a curiosity. ‘High House Farm Brewery’ Nettle Beer is a light amber coloured ale based on a 14th century recipe, made with nettles grown on the farm and said to be a cure for the common cold and gout. Try as I might to induce a bout of gout I can’t confirm that statement, however the beer is extremely palatable; soft, rounded with a hint of hop bitter and sweet caramel. A great albeit potent (4.5% ABV), summer thirst-quencher, assuming we get some sun to punctuate these insessent showers of late!

It’s said that you can’t get too much of a good thing, so having indulged in my fair share of the ‘Durham Breweries’ excellent products of late, the thought of sampling just a few more was to the forefront of my mind, Hexham’s ’Waitrose’ store being my destination and not an unpleasant drive. A deserted Military Road up to Stagshaw, and then over the tops and down through Anwick, and no I didn’t call into the ’Rat’, as tempting as it might seem. And tonight’s selection: St Cuthbert, 6.5% ABV - Special India Pale Ale (x2), and the icing on the cake; Temptation, 10% ABV - Imperial Russian Stout. Surfice to say I slept well, thoughts of a strong, aromatic India Pale Ale, with citrus hop palate and clean finish, tempered by the luscious malt and caramel of a perfectly formed yet complex Imperial Russian Stout to the fore.

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Update: ‘High Elswick Brewery’ - all seems well . . . bloop, bloop. Need I say more!

High Elswick Brewery - Newcastle's latest Micro!

Well it’s Monday morning and the first brew from Newcastle’s latest Micro, ’High Elswick Brewery’ is coming along nicely - ok, it's just a poly-bin in the bath, but we all have to start somewhere. Hopefully come the weekend we’ll be bottling our finished beer, an English Style Barley Wine, our adage as ever quality over quantity . . . the aim being around 3 gallons/24 pints at 7.0% ABV, a judicious bit of kit-bashing giving an added hop attack!

Watch this space for details!         

It’s all about the Beer . . . or, a Hop, Skip and a Jump!

CAMRA’s (Campaign for Real Ale) ‘Tyneside Pub of the Year’, either as outright winner or runner-up for the last 6 years, ‘The Newcastle Arms’ in the heart of Newcastle’s Gallowgate is undoubtedly a drinkers Pub . . . no pretence, what you get is what you see and that is a superb, ever rotating range of Cask Conditioned Beers, hence the accolade. However, would I want to spend a whole evening within its hallowed portals, probably not - gone are the beered-up days of my youth when the ’Arms was a favourite Tuesday night regular, topped-off with a sing-a-long around the piano!

It’s raining again; what ever did become of Global Warming and the promise of long, lazy Summer Days . . . just managed to palm the kids off on Grannie, and I’ve the prospect of a quick pint before being back on Kitchen Duty and a night of ’X-Factor’ etc. - definitely need something to dull the pain. So called to the ‘Arm’s, and what a pint was in store.

‘Summer Wine Brewery’s’ (yes, they’re based in Holmfirth, as in the BBC’s Last of the . . . etc.) Seven ‘C’s West Coast IPA, in tribute to the American Craft Brewing scene, this heady 7% ABV Pale Ale bittered with Columbus, Centennal, Chinook, Cascade, Crystal, Cluster and Citra, yes that’s seven different hop varieties - pours a deep orange amber with creamy off-white head, the nose not hinting at the extreme hop attack to come . . . a huge mouthfull of bitter-sweet, yet rounded citrus flavours, that linger to the very finish and beyond. Truly a pint to savour!

And some more; well OK time for a quick-half but how to follow that, shall we try ‘Thornbridge’s’ Geminus - 8.5% ABV, advertised as a Dark Pale Ale with Double Rye Hops? Well it’s a sister to my . . . and quickly becoming the 'circuts' favourite Jaipur, so I’m sure it will be good and boy, I wasn’t wrong. Rich golden amber, with a light wispy head, malt and tropical fruits on the nose, leading to a complex, luscious multi-layered palate of pure decadence yet, is easy to drink and cry’s out hops and then some, leaving you contemplating a further hit . . .

But, sadly my time on the hop had come; lets say we’ll skip the loos - well as I said you come here for the beer and wouldn‘t want to spoil the experience, jump on the bus and head home for a night of reality, your brief escape a lasting memory!

A Pilgrimage to Durham

My intention had been to offer two separate posts, however circumstances caught up with me; the taxi at the door at the start of my second day beckoned, before I could post details of the first. So, the following is set out as originally written, but with ’Day-breaks’ and additional postscript notes in red. There, clearer than the haze the morning after the night before!

Day One

With prospect of the impending 31st Durham Beer Festival in mind, thoughts turned to making the necessary arrangements for the pilgrimage to Durham, suitably aided by a pint of Big Lamp’s Prince Bishop (originally brewed for and winner of the Best Beer at the 1994 ’Festival) in probably one of the most ornately adorned Pub’s in the North East, ‘The Bodega‘, with its two huge glass domes above the bar, which I believe date to the 1920’s when the premises were part of a Music Hall. The plan hatched; visit ‘Fenwick’s‘ the Newcastle’ Department Store and its impressive Wine Shop, purchase a selection of The Durham Breweries superb bottle-conditioned beers; Magic IPA, 7.0% - £2.69, Benedictus, 8.4% - £2.89 and Bede’s Chalice, 9.0%, and enjoy a quiet evening in anticipation of the day ahead! 

Maybe not the most imaginatively named beer, Magic IPA - thankfully, soon to be re-branded Bombay 106, was nevertheless a ‘magic’ way to start the evening; a true India Pale Ale, with a good 7% ABV backbone and lots of English Goldings Hops. Pouring an opaque light amber, (I should have let it settle longer after disturbing its sediment in transit), with lively, long lasting head, its faint soft nose belying a rounded and full palate with hints of burnt orange, leading to a long satisfying finish. A truly impressive beer, which if its cask equivalent is at the same level, as I’m sure it will, it bodes well for tomorrow evening (tonight) as well. Magic IPA has in fact morphed into Bombay 106 (see details below), but was only available in bottle form, the confusion being on my part. 

Moving on to Benedictus, which I must point out was after a suitable pause, (these are not ’session’ beers and deserve to be appreciated with respect and all due reverence), this classic Barley Wine I find a great accompaniment to simple traditional fare; freshly baked Crusty Bread, Mature Cheddar Cheese and what could be better with a pint (OK, 500ml) than a Pork and Egg Pie, with early-season English Cox Apples on hand for added bite. This is not a canned and carbonated pastiche, its deep amber and luscious rounded appearance is carried through to the palate, where balanced sweet mouthfilling flavours mingle, tempered by a hint of hoppy bitterness. For me pure nectar, which in combination afforded a meal of contemplative silence, as in the true monastic tradition.

And my final tipple of the triple a Tripel, which unlike the contents of Bede’s Chalice (my notes simply say ‘Belgian Tripel Style at its very best!’) this statement doesn’t quite trip of the tongue, but its late in the day, I’ve enjoyed three or am part way through enjoying the third of three beautifully crafted beers, and as I offer a toast to the success of the first part of my pilgrimage, I drift off in to slumber in the knowledge that the ‘Holy Grail’ awaits my rising! The Festival Program advises that Marris Otter Malt with Wheat and Vienna Malt, a charge of Corriander and judicious American Centennial Hops combine to produce this ’sweetish, luscious and fruity experience’, and if that’s not Belgian I don’t know what is!

Day Two

The outline for the day ahead was for a mid-morning start. Take the bus into Durham, have a spot of lunch and soak up the atmosphere, before presenting myself (CAMRA’s Durham Beer Trail of 10 of The Best City Centre Real Ale Pub’s will have to wait for another day) at 5pm for the opening round of the 31st Durham Beer Festival, held once again at Dunelm House (although there are rumblings that a change of venue may be on the cards), the home of the Durham Students Union. The journey passed uneventfully; did see a Thwaites dray . . . must check that out, and the now familiar forest of forlorn Pub to Let signs, mind you the ‘Jalopy’ that passed as the ‘Express Bus’ made me thankful that I don’t have too many fillings - must remember to get the train back upon my return, just to be on the safe side!

Entry to the venue was as usual well organised; hand over a ’tenner’, receive a Festival Glass, nicely printed Program, Voting Slip and not forgetting 4 Beer (or Cider) tokens, and after negotiating the stairs down to the Main Hall, remembering that trips to the loo and the purchase of further tokens would require measured assent, the evening could begin. And the plan . . . well, maybe three hours max, probably no more than 4 pints, which would equate to only eight beers out of the over 100 on offer - quality over quantity every time, and as we shall see a pattern slowly emerged.

Ouseburn Elderflower Gold, 4.1% - a relatively new ‘local’ brewer; the beer pours thinly and its pale colour highlights this facet, however it drinks fresh, light and has some bitterness on the finish. Satisfying if somewhat underwhelming - a good ’session’ beer.    

Arran Blonde, 5.0% - served a tad cold for me, but it is from North o’ the Border, nevertheless this award winning Wheat Beer lived up to the hype. Pouring lemon-gold with a delicate floral hop aroma, this clean tasting almost Continental style beer abounds with character and offers a long, lingering dry finish.

Thornbridge Jaipur IPA, 5.9% - one of my anticipated stars, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Not strictly an IPA in my book but exotic all the same. Citrus fruits, massive hoppiness and a long mouthfilling finish - a real beer to savour.   

Wadworth Bishops Tipple, 5.0% - a Devizes brew and chosen as much for its origins; I spent a number of years in Wiltshire, as for the prospect of its dark golden hue, full flavoured palate and balanced hoppy finish - a tough act after Jaipur, but . . . it held up well.   

Glebe Farm Gladiator Spelt Beer, 4.2% - somewhat of a departure and not strictly a Real Ale, but served chilled from a poly-pack at the ‘Bottle Bar’, this is a piece of living history, a brew enjoyed by our Roman forebears - light, flavoursome and with a surprising punch!  

Stables Silver Buckles, 4.4% - heralded as a light, golden pale ale with a dry, yet citrus fruit finish, I’m sure it lived up to its billing but, try as I might there’s nothing in my mental notes to confirm this - it can’t have been bad though, so that’s a plus.

Durham Cuthbert’s Cross 4.7% - must have been going through a fatigued stage, as at first I couldn’t quite get to grips with this one, yet another golden brew, however its strong, fulsome flavour soon won through, offering a rich fruity palate and long lasting, satisfying finish. 

Wylam Silver Ghost, 5.0% - an intriguing brew which I subsequently voted my favourite of this short selection; a strong typical English Pale Ale, with great balance and lots flavour, which kept me enthralled from start to finish - sometimes it’s the quite one’s that most surprise!

Durham Redemption, 10% - not for comparison but purely for pleasure, enabling me to gather my thoughts before departure - a massive, complex mouthful of sweet toffee apple and bitter orange flavours, due for release in bottle in time for Christmas 2011 . . . I for one will be at the head of the queue.

A pleasant evening and although the chosen range of beers may have been of a similar hue, the contrast in styles was immense and for me, the beauty of a festival such as this is that very opportunity. So, with a bottle of the re-branded Durham, Bombay 106, 7% to hand, (named after the 106th Brigade of the East India Trading Company, who later became the 2nd Battalion of the Durham Light Infantry), I headed home my pilgrimage complete, all things Durham having been perfect!