A Pilgrimage to Durham

My intention had been to offer two separate posts, however circumstances caught up with me; the taxi at the door at the start of my second day beckoned, before I could post details of the first. So, the following is set out as originally written, but with ’Day-breaks’ and additional postscript notes in red. There, clearer than the haze the morning after the night before!

Day One

With prospect of the impending 31st Durham Beer Festival in mind, thoughts turned to making the necessary arrangements for the pilgrimage to Durham, suitably aided by a pint of Big Lamp’s Prince Bishop (originally brewed for and winner of the Best Beer at the 1994 ’Festival) in probably one of the most ornately adorned Pub’s in the North East, ‘The Bodega‘, with its two huge glass domes above the bar, which I believe date to the 1920’s when the premises were part of a Music Hall. The plan hatched; visit ‘Fenwick’s‘ the Newcastle’ Department Store and its impressive Wine Shop, purchase a selection of The Durham Breweries superb bottle-conditioned beers; Magic IPA, 7.0% - £2.69, Benedictus, 8.4% - £2.89 and Bede’s Chalice, 9.0%, and enjoy a quiet evening in anticipation of the day ahead! 

Maybe not the most imaginatively named beer, Magic IPA - thankfully, soon to be re-branded Bombay 106, was nevertheless a ‘magic’ way to start the evening; a true India Pale Ale, with a good 7% ABV backbone and lots of English Goldings Hops. Pouring an opaque light amber, (I should have let it settle longer after disturbing its sediment in transit), with lively, long lasting head, its faint soft nose belying a rounded and full palate with hints of burnt orange, leading to a long satisfying finish. A truly impressive beer, which if its cask equivalent is at the same level, as I’m sure it will, it bodes well for tomorrow evening (tonight) as well. Magic IPA has in fact morphed into Bombay 106 (see details below), but was only available in bottle form, the confusion being on my part. 

Moving on to Benedictus, which I must point out was after a suitable pause, (these are not ’session’ beers and deserve to be appreciated with respect and all due reverence), this classic Barley Wine I find a great accompaniment to simple traditional fare; freshly baked Crusty Bread, Mature Cheddar Cheese and what could be better with a pint (OK, 500ml) than a Pork and Egg Pie, with early-season English Cox Apples on hand for added bite. This is not a canned and carbonated pastiche, its deep amber and luscious rounded appearance is carried through to the palate, where balanced sweet mouthfilling flavours mingle, tempered by a hint of hoppy bitterness. For me pure nectar, which in combination afforded a meal of contemplative silence, as in the true monastic tradition.

And my final tipple of the triple a Tripel, which unlike the contents of Bede’s Chalice (my notes simply say ‘Belgian Tripel Style at its very best!’) this statement doesn’t quite trip of the tongue, but its late in the day, I’ve enjoyed three or am part way through enjoying the third of three beautifully crafted beers, and as I offer a toast to the success of the first part of my pilgrimage, I drift off in to slumber in the knowledge that the ‘Holy Grail’ awaits my rising! The Festival Program advises that Marris Otter Malt with Wheat and Vienna Malt, a charge of Corriander and judicious American Centennial Hops combine to produce this ’sweetish, luscious and fruity experience’, and if that’s not Belgian I don’t know what is!

Day Two

The outline for the day ahead was for a mid-morning start. Take the bus into Durham, have a spot of lunch and soak up the atmosphere, before presenting myself (CAMRA’s Durham Beer Trail of 10 of The Best City Centre Real Ale Pub’s will have to wait for another day) at 5pm for the opening round of the 31st Durham Beer Festival, held once again at Dunelm House (although there are rumblings that a change of venue may be on the cards), the home of the Durham Students Union. The journey passed uneventfully; did see a Thwaites dray . . . must check that out, and the now familiar forest of forlorn Pub to Let signs, mind you the ‘Jalopy’ that passed as the ‘Express Bus’ made me thankful that I don’t have too many fillings - must remember to get the train back upon my return, just to be on the safe side!

Entry to the venue was as usual well organised; hand over a ’tenner’, receive a Festival Glass, nicely printed Program, Voting Slip and not forgetting 4 Beer (or Cider) tokens, and after negotiating the stairs down to the Main Hall, remembering that trips to the loo and the purchase of further tokens would require measured assent, the evening could begin. And the plan . . . well, maybe three hours max, probably no more than 4 pints, which would equate to only eight beers out of the over 100 on offer - quality over quantity every time, and as we shall see a pattern slowly emerged.

Ouseburn Elderflower Gold, 4.1% - a relatively new ‘local’ brewer; the beer pours thinly and its pale colour highlights this facet, however it drinks fresh, light and has some bitterness on the finish. Satisfying if somewhat underwhelming - a good ’session’ beer.    

Arran Blonde, 5.0% - served a tad cold for me, but it is from North o’ the Border, nevertheless this award winning Wheat Beer lived up to the hype. Pouring lemon-gold with a delicate floral hop aroma, this clean tasting almost Continental style beer abounds with character and offers a long, lingering dry finish.

Thornbridge Jaipur IPA, 5.9% - one of my anticipated stars, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Not strictly an IPA in my book but exotic all the same. Citrus fruits, massive hoppiness and a long mouthfilling finish - a real beer to savour.   

Wadworth Bishops Tipple, 5.0% - a Devizes brew and chosen as much for its origins; I spent a number of years in Wiltshire, as for the prospect of its dark golden hue, full flavoured palate and balanced hoppy finish - a tough act after Jaipur, but . . . it held up well.   

Glebe Farm Gladiator Spelt Beer, 4.2% - somewhat of a departure and not strictly a Real Ale, but served chilled from a poly-pack at the ‘Bottle Bar’, this is a piece of living history, a brew enjoyed by our Roman forebears - light, flavoursome and with a surprising punch!  

Stables Silver Buckles, 4.4% - heralded as a light, golden pale ale with a dry, yet citrus fruit finish, I’m sure it lived up to its billing but, try as I might there’s nothing in my mental notes to confirm this - it can’t have been bad though, so that’s a plus.

Durham Cuthbert’s Cross 4.7% - must have been going through a fatigued stage, as at first I couldn’t quite get to grips with this one, yet another golden brew, however its strong, fulsome flavour soon won through, offering a rich fruity palate and long lasting, satisfying finish. 

Wylam Silver Ghost, 5.0% - an intriguing brew which I subsequently voted my favourite of this short selection; a strong typical English Pale Ale, with great balance and lots flavour, which kept me enthralled from start to finish - sometimes it’s the quite one’s that most surprise!

Durham Redemption, 10% - not for comparison but purely for pleasure, enabling me to gather my thoughts before departure - a massive, complex mouthful of sweet toffee apple and bitter orange flavours, due for release in bottle in time for Christmas 2011 . . . I for one will be at the head of the queue.

A pleasant evening and although the chosen range of beers may have been of a similar hue, the contrast in styles was immense and for me, the beauty of a festival such as this is that very opportunity. So, with a bottle of the re-branded Durham, Bombay 106, 7% to hand, (named after the 106th Brigade of the East India Trading Company, who later became the 2nd Battalion of the Durham Light Infantry), I headed home my pilgrimage complete, all things Durham having been perfect!