Saturday, 15 October 2011

A Cumbrian Odyessy (Part 2) - Kendal . . . Just Mint?

Just over a week-ago, having thoroughly enjoyed an exciting range of Cumbrian brewed beers in Carlisle, I mused that the market would be “certainly worthy of greater research”, however little did I know that I would again be venturing into Lakeland, well at least not so soon, but the prospect of the “CAMRA Westmorland Beer Festival” in Kendal (Town Hall, Highgate, 12-15 October 2011), was an opportunity not to be missed.


Copyright © 2011 Marston's PLC 
By way of research, having downloaded the proposed Beer List from Phil Hodgson’s excellent “Newcastle Real Ale Listings” site - www.newcastle-real-ale.co.uk, I settled in for a quite evening of contemplation, trying to find as much background on the Brewery’s and beers to be showcased, helped along by a few bottles of Jennings Cumberland Ale 4.7%; not quite as good as their cask equivalent, or exciting as many of the prospects on offer, but at 3 x 500ml for £4.00 (Asda), I wasn’t going to get much better, well at least not this side of the Pennines. (Jennings, although established in Cockermouth since 1874, are now part of the Marston's Group and can no longer be classed as an Independent Brewery. However, their parent company's commitment to the plant was demonstrated in the wake of the 2009 Cumbrian Floods, when after being badly damaged and out of operation for three months, they effected rapid repairs at the cost of several million pounds).


The day dawned damp and overcast; a typical autumn Tyneside morning, and nothing like the clear, crisp October day looking out over Cummock Water, as depicted on the labels of last night’s beers, but I was sure thing’s would improve. A breakfast of Tea and a Bacon Stottie (Bun, Bap, Cob or whatever you call your local bread speciality) in the Central Station . . . no beer at breakfast for me, but feeling suitably invigorated the first train of my journey beckoned - the “Carlisle Rattler”! Looking serene and innocent when I pictured the beast upon our arrival, but who ever thought you could put an old bus on rails and expect a smooth ride at 70 miles/per hour? Suitably shaken, I was stirred on to look for a pint to calm me down.


© Thwaites/Wetherspoon
They say familiarity breeds contempt, but from experience of last weeks excursion and the fact that I only had some 50 minutes before my next train, I plumped for the safe option and headed for “Wetherspoon’s”, only to find it had changed its name. Of course, it had always been the “William Rufus” - American Vice-President, and not the guy who got the top job commemorated some four doors down. My mistake and should you refer to my earlier posting, (Carlisle Awayday - Just the Ticket!), you’ll know were I’m coming from. Anyway, told you I was shaken, but my pint of Thwaites Daniel’s Hammer 5.0%, there being no Cumbrian beers on offer, certainly hit the mark, and as I strolled back to the Station reminded me of my visits in the 1970’s, when each north-bound trains carriage wheels would systematically ring to the strike of the “Wheeltapper” - a practice I’d never seem before or come across since.


The remainder of the journey proved uneventful; a short haul over Shap and onto Oxenholme, before changing for the Windermere train and the 5 minute run into Kendal - all in air-conditioned luxury and aboard a modern, smooth running high-speed Diesel, in marked contrast to my earlier experiences, and this a single-track five mile branch to a rural backwater, not a main cross-country route, but I digress. And so, on to the venue, a short walk up into town and like most blokes where beer is to be found, an easy find; although the 60ft banner and pointy-arrow may have helped. Free entry, a well laid-out and airy room with numerous tables and lots of seating, together with a great range of home-cooked food beckoned, and that’s not forgetting the beer, the 19th century provincial splendour of the upstairs Assembly Room only adding to the relaxed anticipation of the afternoon’s events.


An array of homemade pies and assorted pickles set before me, I headed to the bar to find my first beer; I had hoped it to be Beckstones Rev Bob 4.6%, but as I was to find out, many of my carefully researched choices were among the handful of beers which hadn’t arrived, had been substituted or weren’t quite ready - so much for my careful preparation. Not to be fazed, I plumped for a previous favourite; Cumbrian Legendary Ales Loweswater Gold 4.3% - a Gold Medal Winner at the 2011 “Great British Beer Festival”. Now, it may have been my disappointment at the disruption to my schedule, the delicious pickles dulling my palate, or even having to sup from a pot with a handle, (an alien tradition here in the North East!), but either way it didn’t quite work out and proved to set a precedent for the afternoon. Onwards and upwards?


Sadly, my next three selections I again found to be lacking - it can only have been me as we we're talking some of Cumbria’s finest and innovative brewers; Croglin (had hoped for their Gylden Ringer 3.8%) Trickster 4.2%, Kirby Lonsdale Monumental Blonde 4.5% and Ulverston Celebration Ale 3.9%, although all were second choices, I just wasn’t having any luck. However, although the glassware wasn’t to my preference, I found some consolation in the fact that  they were marked for both third and half pints, this together with all beers being individually priced, meant that I’d hardly splashed out a fortune and was just over a pint into the session. Time for drastic measures - and what a devil; Summer Wine Diablo 6.6%, its sharp hop kick and fruit laden mouthful guaranteed to lift the palate!


Copyright © 2008
Hexhamshire Brewery 
The brief trip into Yorkshire certainly helped, and with my next two selections I literately began to scale the heights that I knew Cumbrian brewers could aspire too; Hesket Newmarket Scafell Blonde 4.3% and Coniston Old Man Ale 4.2%, both rising above the perception of mediocrity I had earlier encountered. There was now only one option; Hexhamshire Old Humbug 5.5% - aptly named to describe my earlier mood, its dark, malty flavours and lingering palate allowing me to reflect on my day, and accept that you can’t have your cake (or pickles) and eat it! Kendal had been a great day out; the friendliness of the “CAMRA Westmorland Branch” members second to none and very much worthy of praise for their efforts, and that despite my own initial thoughts, confirmation that Cumbria has many bright stars in the brewing stratosphere.   

Wednesday, 12 October 2011

A Pie and a Pint - a British Classic!

A Pie and a Pint; or in this case three of them, that’s pies not pints, although I did enjoy three different beers to accompany them - where? . . . "Wetherspoon’s"!

Yes, as part of the "J. D. Wetherspoon" pub groups current "Real Ale & Cider Festival - Wednesday 5 to Sunday 23 October", they are offering Three Mini Pies; Steak & Abbot Ale, Chicken & Vegetable and a Shepherd’s with Lamb and Mashed Potato topping, the perfect accompaniment to a pint. But better still, you can choose your pint made up of three separate third-pint glasses, for me Everards Whakatu, the American Fat Head’s Yakima Sun and Rooster’s Last Stand, making my complete lunch just over £6.00; easy on the pocket but not lacking in flavour’s or choice.



Everards Whakatu 3.7%  Fat Head's Yakima Sun 5.0%  Rooster's Last Stand 4.3%

Catch them all, while you can - a true British Classic!

Monday, 10 October 2011

Carlisle Awayday - Just the Ticket!

It may just be a coincidence, but it would seem that many a Cask Ale drinker of a certain age spent their youthful leisure hours at the end of a railway platform, the pursuit of Train-spotting I guess being similar to Beer Ticking, insomuch that you're always wanting to complete the set. Back in the 1970's, although Newcastle' and its environs offered a diverse choice for the railway enthusiast, you knew that there was a completely different world some sixty miles away at the foot of Hadrian's Wall; Carlisle was always a rewarding 'Awayday' destination. Fast forward to 2011, and the prospect of Solway CAMRA's Carlisle Beer Festival was met with similar anticipation.

The 'Centurion' in Newcastle's Central Station not only boasts an ever-changing selection of Cask Ales, but has arguably one of the finest interiors of any Pub in the country. Having started life as the Station's First Class Lounge, its grand 1890's tiled interior can now be enjoyed by all and makes the perfect starting point for any journey by train - if of course an excuse to pay a call were needed. So, with a copy of the Tyne Valley Line timetable and 'Whistle Stops' leaflet to hand, (Real Ale Pubs along The Hadrian's Wall Country Line), I settled down to enjoy an aptly named pint of Hadrian & Border’s Centurion, soak up the atmosphere of my magnificent surroundings and look forward to what new finds may lie ahead.

My intention had been to stop off along route, maybe enjoy the odd pint or two and indulge in a spot of lunch, however ticketing requirements, timetable restrictions and out of season pub opening times all conspired to ensure that I had to head straight on to Carlisle - I'm sure things were much simpler back in the old days, although my retro-mode of transport, in the form of a near 30 year old bus-derived train made me appreciate that the past was maybe not as perfect as I'd imagined. Suitably shaken and in need of a restorative pint, I headed out from Carlisle's Citadel and onto Lowther Street, noting the Beer Festival's venue for later reference, the imposing 'Hallmark Hotel', who's footpath signage also held echoes of the past - the London Midland & Scottish Railway having ceased to exist some 60 years earlier! 

A brief stroll brought me to the 'Howard Arms', a recommendation from CAMRA's 2012 'Good Beer Guide' - a Historic Gem of a Pub, its original tiled exterior shinning like a beacon for the weary traveller. Once through the door, the interior is less grand but clean and inviting all the same, although the beer choice is somewhat limited; Theakston Best Bitter and Caledonian Deuchars IPA. However, a pint of the later and a hearty plate of Ham, Egg and Chips and I felt ready to take on all comers. So, through 'The Lanes' and onto the 'King's Arms' - Solway CAMRA's City Pub of the Year for the last 3 years. A little worn at the edges for my liking and, although the beer selection had much to recommend an extended stay; Cumbrian favourites Yates and Keswick Breweries, for me it takes more than a pint to make a pub.

A brief stop for Coffee gave me time to reflect; surely Carlisle couldn't have run out of steam, I must just be on the wrong track and I'd be sure to see the green light soon, but little did I know that first I was about to hit the buffers. 'Whistle Stops' suggested the 'Griffin' on Court Square, so I headed back in the direction of the Station. A former bank building, the interior of which is now a typical city-centre whistles and bells offering, it taking me a while to realise that the chromed bar fittings were in fact hand pulls - mistake; the half of Dent’s Black Sheep on offer was, I can say with all honesty, the worst presented Cask Ale I've had in many a long year. If it takes more than a pint to make a pub, you haven't a hope in hells chance if you can't even get the beer right. Not exactly a showcase for one of Cumbria's finest brews.

'Kings Arms' - Carlisle City Centre Pub of the Year?

With still 40 minutes to kill before the doors opened at 'The Hallmark', a sharp right onto Botchergate brought me to 'Wetherspoon's - Lloyds No.1 Bar' the 'Woodrow Wilson' - apparently the former American President was born in Carlisle. Now, as with most 'Spoon's' outlets the venue may be a bit brash and lacking in local character, however they know the Real Ale market and you won't find a more reliable pint, or this being their own 'Festival Fortnight', (The World's Biggest Real Ale & Cider Festival - Wednesday 5th - Sunday 23rd October), such a diverse range - I certainly wasn't disappointed. My half of Brakspear's Triple was perfection, and normally only being available in bottles this slightly reduced ABV offering - 7.2% to 5.7% made a refreshing change and really restored my spirits.

With a spring in my step I headed on to the 'Hallmark', its Ballroom bright and airy, with plenty of tables and proper seating; things were definitely looking up - I'd come to Cumbria, primarily to try Local Ales and from the Beer List I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. Having used my £2.00 discounted Entry Voucher, (the trip to the 'King's' hadn't been totally in vain), exchanged £10.00 for 8 Beer Half-pint Tokens, and paid a further £2.00 deposit for a suitable glass, I settled in for a most enjoyable evening. My selection being as follows:-

Cumberland Breweries, Corby Blond 4.2%

Crystal clear, pale straw blonde ale with pronounced hop character, for me a touch on the light-side, but no doubt a great session pint, its well balanced palate and lingering finish make it very more-ish.

Cumbrian Legendary, Loweswater Gold 4.2%

Rich citrus nose, tropical fruits on the palate - pure nectar, a worthy winner of 'Champion Golden Ale of Britain 2011' and as it would turn out, probably my Festival favourite.

Greenodd Brewery, Roundabout 4.5%

Another golden brew, this with Lager Malts and New Zealand hops, offering an almost vinous nose, with Sauvignon Blanc grape gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, a real mouthful to savour.

Steel City Brewing, Sheffield Hop Infusion Team 5.7%

A trip into Yorkshire; this is hops and then some, but not too in your face. A refreshing yet heady brew, a fine pale ale packed with flavour - half way through my selection and marvelling at the sheer craftsmanship on offer.

Yates Brewery, Green Hop Bitter 4.2%

A true Cumbrian product, brewed using Green Hop Cones grown at the brewery, it's distinct, fresh flavour and rounded palate offering a long, satisfying almost semi-sweet finish.

Hardknott, Cool Fusion 4.4%

Pale straw, with a grassy nose and just a hint of spice, refreshing, thirst quenching, it's finish tempered with sweet ginger - a hit I'd imagine when paired with delicate oriental foods.

Coniston Brewing Co., Infinity IPA 6.0%

A golden, amber pale ale with fresh zesty nose and orange, lemon palate and a nicely bittered finish, which balances the sweetness of its malts - a fine, modern expression of the IPA style.

Tyne Bank Brewery, Alt Bier 4.6%

One for the road; a typical Newcastle' style Brown Ale, caramel, malt and chocolate flavours, balanced hop bitterness with spice and fruit, and a slight floral nose - lagered for two months giving a smooth, rounded finish.


In the end, my 'Awayday' therefore proved a great day out, very much meeting, even exceeding expectations, despite a few hiccups along the way. And, although my choices could only be considered as a snapshot, covering in the main only Pale/Golden Ales and just a small percentage of those on offer, let alone the myriad of other styles available; Traditional Bitter's and Mild's, through Brown Ales to Porter's and Stout's, it would have to be said the Cumbrian brewing scene appears healthy and above all full of innovation, certainly worthy of greater research!

Postscript: A picture I intended to take in the mid-1970's, but never got around to it. Back then, to think that the painted signage for the 'Maryport and Carlisle Railway Goods and Coal Depot' was still legible after at least 50 years was quite remarkable, (the company being part of the 1923 amalgamation to form the LMS; London Midland & Scottish Railway). However, nearly another 40 years later it still greets arrivals into Carlisle from the East, demonstrating quite amazing staying power; a thought I held in mind as I popped into the 'Centurion' for one last pint upon my arrival back into Newcastle'!

Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Going around in Circles!

One of the most widely available Cask Ales on Tyneside is the Caledonian Brewery’s Deuchars IPA. Brewed in Edinburgh at the former Lorimer & Clarke site, a traditional Victorian brewery with direct-fired copper, it is in fact one of the many brands of the global Heineken Group, formed in part by the acquisition of the old Scottish & Newcastle concern. Itself, with obvious links to Newcastle’, but as we shall also see synonymous with the name Deuchar - pronounced as in: “You’re due a Deuchars”.


Image & Trademark: © 2011 Caledonian Brewing Co. Ltd 


Robert Deuchar, who was born of humble stock in Forfarshire, Scotland arrived on Tyneside in the 1860’s, where in his early thirties we find him as a Farmer at Boldon, having already acquired some 130 acres and employing 2 labours. However, within 10 years he’d moved to Newcastle’ and into the Licensed Trade, in 1871 being resident at the old 'Chester Hotel' in Shieldfield, having previously started as an Innkeeper in Newgate Street at the 'Chancellor's Head'. 


Over the next 30 years he built-up a vast estate, converted the old brewery at Sandyford, Jesmond into extensive storage, and established the famous Duddingston Ales, back in his native Scotland - although always a Tyneside favourite.

A walk around Jesmond today still offers hints of that legacy; the Sandyford Brewery buildings, Deuchar Street were the old Cradlewell pub sits empty, and Robert’s final resting place, Jesmond Old Cemetery. For, when he died in 1904 his effects were valued at over £300,000.00 - millions by today’s standards and quite an achievement for a once humble Farm Servant; in a reverse of the old adage, drink had certainly not become the better of him.


Yet his death was not the end of this Tyneside connection, for under his son Farquhar the name of Robert Deuchar lived on for a further 50 years, the Pub Estate continuing to expand, and with it our taste for Scottish brewed ales - its purchase by Newcastle Breweries in the early 1950’s being the foundation of the combined Scottish & Newcastle group. And so to today, a pint of Deuchars IPA - brewed in Scotland, appreciated on Tyneside, the legacy of a Scotsman who lived in our midst, and proof that in life we’re forever ’Going around in Circles’!

Photo 'The Chester' 1966: © Newcastle Libraries'

Tuesday, 4 October 2011

A Trip to The Coast

Dominated by its ancient Priory, Tynemouth can obviously trace its origins to earlier times, however with the coming of the railways, and in particular their electrification by the North Eastern Railway in the early 1900’s, its growth as a dormitory town mushroomed, and it’s that blend of the ancient and elegant that greets today’s visitor.

Tyneside’s Metro, the latest incarnation of the ‘Coast Electric’ trains, although now some 30 years old, looks set to remain with signs of constant renewal works evident throughout the system - the point that the plug was pulled on the old L.N.E.R. infrastructure, only to be resurrected less than 12 years later . . . but that’s another story.

So arriving in Tynemouth on a trip to the Coast, as generations of Tynesider’s have done in the past and, no doubt will continue to do so for years to come, one is greeted by the splendour of the 1880’s station, (currently undergoing a further and complete restoration), its structure far greater than the needs of today’s travellers, but providing a regal portal to the delights of the town.

On a chilly, windswept Monday lunchtime, I of course hadn’t come to sample the sea air, although as events would unfold, the opportunity to blow-away a few cobwebs with a stroll on the Long Sands did ensue. No, today’s mission was to enjoy a few pints, a spot of lunch and take stock of Front Street’s historic watering holes.

My first port of call The Salutation, which despite extensive interior alterations, remains largely unaltered externally, in fact exactly as I remember it from the mid-1980’s and looking at earlier photographs doesn’t appear to have changed much in the last 100 years - a good start and the sign proclaiming a range of Local Cask Ales on offer was enough to temp me through the doors.

Cask Ale Week - 3rd to 9th October 2011


Cask Ales, one of the few growth areas in the Licensed Trade, have of course been embraced by many of the new pub chains; some do it better than others, but as a rule those with Cask Marque accreditation are generally better than others . .  . sadly the ’Sally’ didn’t quite hit the mark. Alright, my pint of Brakspear Oxford Gold wasn’t bad but it’s hardly local, and despite their promotion of Cask Ale Week, emblazoned on the walls and the chest of my host, it takes a little bit more than a reasonable £1.70 for you want to stay on and sample the hospitality.

The Turks Head, with its 1930’s tiled exterior is undoubtedly a traditional pub, and can trace its origins much further back to the late 1700’s, but it’s probably the legend of Wandering Willie, a Border Collie who having lost its master in driving sheep down from the Cheviots to North Shields, remained in the locality in the hope they’d be reunited, sadly that day never came and he remains in death a poignant feature of the pub, set in a glass fronted recess in the bar wall, where he’s cast his eye over generations of drinkers since his demise in 1880.

From street level one enters the wooden floored lower bar, which offers a time worn but obviously well cared for appearance, not a modern pastiche but an organic, evolved interior with hints to its past - cast iron mahogany topped tables, an eclectic mix of seating, colourful lead-glazed doors and windows etc., . . . and the beer didn’t disappoint either. Jarrow Brewery’s Rivet Catcher, one of my favourite LocAles, was as good as it comes, and testament to the adage that the secret to a good pint is more than the sum of its parts; Cask Ale is not a marriage of convenience!

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012


Suitably refreshed, it was time to move on and find that spot of lunch I’d promised myself, and possibly squeeze in another pint . . . so retracing my steps I arrived at the Cumberland Arms, another gem of a pub with a traditional feel, and despite its 1890’s exterior being shadowed by a modern Carlsberg delivery lorry, I knew from old that there’d be a much better offering inside.

Settling into the Lower Deck of this nautical themed bar, I was immediately welcomed by the ever friendly staff, a pint of Springhead Maid Marian to hand and the prospect of an All Day Breakfast on the horizon. And what a feast; two of everything and a stack of chips to boot, served promptly and at £4.95 a real bargain . . . a further reminder of what’s good about the English Pub and why the best continue to flourish. However, good hospitality can lead to temptation, and having freely sampled the remaining ales on offer, one too many pints ensued, hence the aforementioned stroll on the beach, but a fitting end to a trip to the Coast.

Featured CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2012


Image © Cumberland Arms, Tynemouth, see website:
www.cumberlandarms.co.uk